75 Questions Bring Pencil and Notecard Study Concepts *names of fashion photographers and their main achievement
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AESHM 272 Final Review 75 Questions Bring Pencil and Notecard Study Concepts *names of fashion photographers and their main achievement *basic comparison of editorial vs commercial models-types of jobs, prestige, general pay *places where I compare things side-by-side *lists *definitions
Fashion Dolls: What are they? miniature, to scale figures wearing replicas of latest clothing How were they used? Sent to potential customers to show clothes Theatre de la Mode: 1945 exhibit of mannequins 1/3 life size Gratitude Train: created in response to American aid after WWII, created 228 fashion dolls -showed fashions from 1715-1906 Barbie: 1959, created by Ruth Handler, 3D
Development of Runway Shows: Who were big designers and what were their main achievements? Charles Frederick Worth: credited for using the first in-house, live mannequins, MALE models Paul Poiret: started promotion of fashion Lucile: (Lady Duff Gordon) developed first runway show called mannequin parades
Jeanne Paquin: 1st designer to close shows with finale Jean Patou: rival of Chanel, known for sportswear
Christian Dior: “New Look” 1947 Mary Quant: innovator of miniskirt, she hired 9 photographic models for movement
Kenzo: eliminated all previous fashion show rules, stopped half way through show, cross dress show, elephant End of 21st Century Developments: 1980’s vs 1990’s What is important in 21st Century: Victoria’s Secret: 1999 first online show, 2 mil ppl watched and crashed server, aired annually Forever21: series of holographic shows in 2011
How was fashion week started?
What are the 4 most famous fashion weeks?
NYFW: Who runs it? IMG Fashion Who sponsors it? Mercedes Benz Where is it? Lincoln Center Who is it’s biggest competitor? MAC at Milk/Milk Made, individual shows Types of Fashion Weeks:
Alexander McQueen: paint squirting Marc Jacobs: Penn State Marching Band sang “Smells Like Teen Spirit” Alexander McQueen: glass and holographic illusion Hussein Chalayan: garment changing shape Pierre C & Fendi: dessert and Great Wall of China Moncler Grenoble: flash mob in Grand Central Station Louis Vuitton: escalators, black, very choreographed Rick Owens: MAD, dancing models
Promotion: a comprehensive term used to describe all of the communication activities iniated by the seller to inform, persuade, and remind customers about products, services, etc Co-operative Promotion: Multiple channel reps partnering in financial support and production of a fashion show presentation Magazine tie-in: Cooperative fashion show between major fashion publication and individual retailer
Levels of promotion: Primary: fiber/fabric-notions Secondary: apparel manufacturers-accessory manufacturers Tertiary: retailers Types of fashion shows: What are the main types of shows?
Types of informal fashion shows: Trunk show, mannequin modeling Specialized fashion shows: Presented by one market level, aimed specifically at the next market level Haute couture vs ready-to-wear
Trade shows: Groups of temporary exhibits of vendors’ offerings for a single merchandise category or group of related categories
Trade association shows: Groups of individuals and businesses acting as a professional, non-profit collective in meeting their common interests
Consumer shows: Fashion shows aimed directly at consumers
The leadership team: What are the potential roles in industry vs. retail shows? In the industry Public relations officer PR/Event Planning Firms Show Production Team Show producer Stylist Make-up Artists/Hairdressers Models Behind the Scenes/Stage Crew Retail Stores/Charitable Organizations In-house PR Director Leader within organization Show Production Team Fashion Show director Budget coordinator Promotion coordinator Merchandise coordination Model coordinator Stage manager What is involved in those roles? (responsibilities and skill requirements) Show producer: the individual or firm hired to bring all the fashion show elements together, translating the designer’s vision into a 3D live show Responsibilities- Casing the models Overseeing the set design/construction Supervising hair/make-up artists Directing the light and music crew Skill Requirements- Organizational skills Communication skills Good industry contacts Creativity
Plans for all arrangements Delegate responsibility Accept accountability Must have good communication skills Make sure everyone is clear on directions Keeps track of decisions/activities for the future Keeps everyone informed Needs good flexibility/problem solving skills Ability to analyze status while in progress Delegate!
Coordinate all activities involving models Making arrangements for hair and make-up
Front of house: stage, runway, seating Back of house: equipment, stagehands, audio-visual Supervises announcers/commentary Sometimes on staff at venue; sometimes provided by organization
Includes news releases, photographs, posters, invitations, advertisements, etc (social media) Merchandise Coordinator: in charge of the selection of merchandise for the entire show Often times this role is filled by designer, with help of the stylist, if the show launches a collection If for a retail store, need to pick apparel and accessories to create a cohesive vision Works with model coordinators for fittings Budget Coordinator: responsible for keeping track of all revenues and expenses Plans estimated budget Keeps fashion show director informed Create final budget after the show Planning considerations: Scheduling Selecting a Venue Creating a Theme Setting a Budget
Timing is crucial Considerations: will time/date allow audience to travel there? Are other events conflicting with the date? Does the date enhance you promotional goals? Once date is established, make the most of the time you have Begin constructing a timeline Benefits: Keeps everyone involved up-to-date on progress Provides visuals to ensure everything is considered
Venue: the location where the show will take place Things to consider: What date has been selected? How big is the audience? What type of seating arrangements? Is food service needed? What is needed for lighting, A/V, staging, dressing, etc? Types of Venues to consider: Retail stores/ showrooms Hotels
Restaurants Auditoriums/theaters Non-traditional choices: museums, empty loft spaces, outdoors, etc Hotel Pros: Provide all rentals (chairs, tables, linens) Provide staff for event Have in-house catering Event staff to help with logistics Legally binding contracts Hotel Cons: No flexibility with catering Often have size limitations Little flexibility in aesthetics Restaurant Pros: Creates a social atmosphere Rentals included (likely) All catering needs covered Useful for on-the-go shows, such as over a lunch hour Restaurant Cons: Additional regulatory concerns Age limitations for bars Space limitations Little flexibility in aesthetics Expensive, if during business hours Auditorium Pros: Lighting and A/V capabilities Ample seating Great flexibility in use of stage Auditorium Cons: No flexibility in seating Often little flexibility in runway shape Far more considerations if food/drink are served Must be scheduled far in advance
What story are you trying to tell with your fashion show? Potential Sources of Themes: Seasons/Holidays Current events Fashion trends Niche interests of audience
Venue, Stylist, Production and PR, Hair and Makeup, Models ($150-$1000), Celebrities ($15,000-$100,000 per celeb), Livestreaming Grand total: approximately $200,000 at NYFW Some spend way more Marc Jacobs $1,000,000 Victoria’s Secret $10,000,000 Budget: an estimate of the revenues and expenses necessary to produce a fashion show PR Shows: no plan to turn a profit Charity and School shows: need to actually make money Possible Expenses: Venue Rental, Food/Catering, Show Personnel, Promotion, Photography/Vidoe, Technical/Support Staff Venue Rental: one of the most single expenses Need to consider rehearsal days Questions to ask: What is included?/Seasonal pricing?/Time of day pricing? Food/Catering: need food service for audience and crew Get a contract signed Model Expenses: huge variation Many work freelance- being paid in clothes Top models can ask for huge fees Hair and Makeup: potential for great variation Can pay a salon or have planning committee do it (still have to pay for materials) PR and Promotion: must include payment for all duties from designing to producing to distributing PR materials Consider costs of printing and mailing Other considerations (color paper, printing, type of paper) Photography: What photography is required? Staff photographers vs. press Videography of show Budgeting-Support Staff: Set build: carpenters, electricians, etc Music: DJ, sound system, music rights Backstage: dressers, alterations, security Front of house: hosts, ushers Budgeting-Miscellaneous: always expect the unexpected Guest designers, transportation of garments, pre-parties, damaged merchandise
Every aspect of your show must consider: THE AUDIENCE Guaranteed audience vs. created audience Guaranteed Audience: individuals who will attend the show regardless of the fashions displayed Ex: regular store customers, students in AMD department, attendees of a meeting, etc Created Audience: an audience that is established after the show in planned, as a result of promotional activities Ex: potential customers for a new store, students in other majors In general it is best to promote to a specific audience, rather than the general public Demographics vs psychographics: Demographics: statistics used to study a population Age, gender, income, education level, (facts, comparable) Psychographics: profiles the lifestyle of consumers based upon activities, interests, and opinions Ex: hobbies, political beliefs, religious beliefs, leisure activities, (more subjective, personality based)
Brand: name, term, design, symbol that identifies one seller’s goods or services different from another’s; represents implicit values, ideas, even personalities) Logo: a graphic symbol or word mark using the company’s name Font: a range of letters and numbers with particular type face Color Schemes: repeated use of hues (ex: Barbie pink) Symbol: non-verbal imagery (ex: chrome symbol) Sound: unique tune or set of notes
Newspapers: one of the most common forms, easily reaches a local audience, relatively cost effective, pay based on size and position in paper Standard advertising unit (SAU) 2 1/16 x 1 inch Preferred position: advertisement run at a specified page or position within the newspaper Full run: advertising shown in all editions of paper Zoned editions: advertising shown selectively only in one or a few geographically selected regions Magazines: one of the best ways to reach a national audience Great photographic reproduction Not widely used for national fashion show promotion—to much lead time Purchased by percentage of page—full-page, 2/3 page, half page, etc 3 Parts of Newspaper Advertisement: Copy- includes headlines, sub headlines, body, slogan, and/or logos Art- illustrations, photos, graphic designs, clip art White space- space between copy and art Television: most expensive and most influential Based on length of ad and time the ad will run Network Advertising: time bought on one of the major networks during a specified show Spot Advertising: time bought on independent stations Local Advertising: time bought on local television stations Radio: Most cost effective than television Based on length of ad and time frame for airing Potential times: 10,20,30,60 seconds Most expensive times: when people are in their cars (6-9 AM) (4-7PM)
Brand controls advertising, media outlet controls PR Public Relations: Publicity: information with news value, uncontrolled by the source and provided by public relations specialists for use in mass media Publicist: the individual hired to publicize a client or client’s product in the media What are the different jobs available in PR? 3 ways to work as a publicist in fashion: 1. Work for a fashion PR agency Provides the widest range of experiences Lots of Variety Requires intense time and client management skills 2. Work in house for a brand/retailer Integrated member of a team Access to latest news and updates Can be monotonous 3. Work as an independent contractor Project-by-project basis Must find own work Get to choose own clients/projects Other Types: Direct Marketing: marketing process by which organizations communicate directly with target customers to generate a response or transaction Can be direct mail, apps, banner ads, spam, etc Personal Selling: direct interaction between the customer and the seller for the purpose of making a sale Social Media: web-based and mobile technologies to turn communication into interactive dialogue Ex: Facebook, Twitter, Insta AND Reddit: AMAs provide companies or individuals with a chance to interact directly with the public (celebrities use) Blogs: useful for building lifestyle brands, bloggers offer free interaction for visitors and are paid for product placement Visual Merchandising: physical presentation of products in a non-personal approach Most common: window displays or interior displays
Timeline: basic idea of how photography developed 1826: first successful photograph “View from Window at Le Gras” 1839: the daguerreotype was developed as the first commercially available photography(first on metal) 1839: Calotype process introduced paper printing 1861: first color photographs cerated by three different color projection filters 1868: first printed color photographs is made, but isn’t at all practical 1887: first celluloid film base 1935: first commercially viable color photography equipment produced 1948: introduction of the Polaroid instant camera 1957: first photographs scanned into computers 1996: the first digital camera is introduced 1990: photoshop 1.0 is introduced, sold under the name “Barneyscan XP” (Do not need to know specific years) Fashion Photographers: Edward Steichen: first to display fashion as fine art, treated photography like painting Richard Avedon: famous for both portraits and fashion photography Irving Penn: Known for shooting portraits of creative guests Also known for still life photos in very modern style Hugely influential on stylist development of fashion photography
Painterly approach to photography Tends to create complex, color compositions in current work Three primary categories: 1.) Catalog Photography: easily accessible, clean and subdued styling, simple backgrounds, main purpose is to sell the wardrobe 2.) Editorial photography: typically “out on location” or interacting with a lifestyle, not as posed tend to show events over the course of a time period (morning/night), most commonly seen in fashion spreads 3.) High fashion photography: feature models with extreme height and angular features, exaggerated poses, very dramatic clothing and styling Types of photographs: Action shot: features a model or product in action Head shot: small photo of only a person’s face, typically a portrait, usually simple styling Group shot: photograph of several people lined up Product shot: photograph emphasizing a fashion item without models (accessories/shoes)
Why are models important? Promote the desired brand image of clothing Public face of company Display clothing in manner desired by designer Types of models: main categories: editorial vs commercial Editorial Models: Primarily seen on runways or in editorial magazine spreads Typical jobs: runways at fashion weeks in fashion capitals, advertisements for prestige brands Tend to be: younger, thinner, 13-22, 5’9”-6”, 00-4, edgy, strange, skinny More prestigious, lower pay
Primarily seen in mass-market or for profit side of fashion Typical jobs: catalogs, showroom displays, TV commercials for non-apparel goods Tend to be: older, larger, 18-30, 5’6”-5’7”, 2-6 size, classic beauty, “attractive” Less prestigious, higher pay
Women who continue modeling jobs well into their 30s-50s Often combine modeling with other professional pursuits
Models between 5’2”-5’7” Have a niche market for designers who offer petite lines
Size 10-20+ As typical woman is getting larger, plus size models are finding more work
Most often featured in back-to-school ads Male Models: Commercial or editorial, earn much less than women Job opportunities: Runway, advertising, body parts modeling, tv acting, catalogue, fit/showroom Careers in modeling: what are basic steps in starting modeling career? Modeling Agency: companies that represent a variety of fashion models and act as scheduling agents for them, reputation for running scams May have different agencies for different cities Bookers: also known as agents, the individuals hired by the agency to promote, coordinate schedules, and negotiate fees for the models What agencies are looking for: the “look” (a reference point, a theme, a feeling, an era, or even an essence), difficult to define, not necessarily beauty 2.) Put together a portfolio 3.) Try to book work What are elements in a modeling portfolio? Portfolio: Test Shots: photos to show off versatility Composite Shots: includes photos, names, stats, and agency Tearsheets: examples of editorial work What are steps in booking a job? Go-see/Casting Call: meet with a client for a potential job Callback: also called fit-to-confirm, give the client a second look Option: a temporary hold on a model Booking: books a job for a runway show or photo shoot
Pros:
Can handle the confusion Pick up choreography quickly Professional attitude Know how to show off the clothes Cons: Must be paid Amateur Models: Pros:
Can be paid in different ways than just money May be an audience draw Cons: More challenges with good runway presentation Demand more time and attention More likely to damage merchandise Less standard sizing
Includes: opening the show, entering the stage or runway, planning paces, pivots, and pauses, exiting the stage or runway, ending of the show/finale *Huge difference between amateur vs. professional models
2006: Madrid banned models smaller than 18 BMI 2012: Israel banned models smaller than 18.5 BMI
Most of the time, child models looks just like children—little controversy over this Controversy when child models are not shown as children Thylane Blondeau- 10 years old in Vogue Paris According to Model Alliance: 54.7% of models begin their career at ages 13-16 52% of parents rarely or never go to model casting with their children Only 9.3% responded “Always” New York passed law to protect child models in October 2013 Protections include: limitations on working hours, parents/guardians must set up trust funds—employers contribute 15% of gross earnings, time set aside for homework Pay of Models: Bureau of Labor Statistics: $9.02 per hour; $18,750 per year Ex: Model Ashley Stetts: cover of Women’s Health magazine; paid $250 Runway shows are hugely variable Some brands pay, others just offer merchandise Pay ranges from 0-$1,000 Models are considered independent contractors No union for models Many agencies are not trustworthy The model Alliance: who are they? What are their main causes? The Model Alliance: non-profit group advocating for models’ rights; led by Sara Ziff (current model); addresses all three controversies (pay of models, use of child models, sizing of models) Models Bill of Rights: Professionalism, transparent accounting practices, control their career, negotiable commissions, rights to models under 18
Difference in merchandise for industry level vs. consumer show Industry level shows: Shows broad concepts within a current season Typically involve only one designer Consumer level shows: Show specific trends within a current season Typically involve pieces from many designers of retailers
Merchandise Categories: merchandise divisions presented in the show Ideal Chart: a plan listing categories of merchandise to be presented in the show Important to define what you want to include; list trends, accessories, garment categories, etc How many pieces necessary? One look=one minute
Merchandise flow: the order that looks are presented in a fashion show to create an overall sense of rhythm Helps audience visualize how things are worn Creates connections between pieces Builds excitement
Merchandise Pull: physical removal of merchandise from the sales floor to an area reserved for storage of fashion show merchandise Try to do far in advance Things to consider: relationships with retailers are important; create a loan record to ensure merchandise is cared for and returned Step 4: Set up line up/hold fittings Tentative line-up: the proposed order of the models and the merchandise, prepared before fittings Model order: the rotation in which the models will appear throughout the show Fittings: matching the models to the merchandise Put together a toolkit including fitting sheets, garment tags, straight pins, scissors, measuring tapes, etc Have miscellaneous materials like garment bags, hangers, scarves, etc Develop a tentative plan before fittings based on garment sizes and models’ measurements Final line-up: a complete listing of merchandise and models in order of their appearance, determine after fittings Might change because looks don’t fit the line-up, clothes would look better on a different model, models have to change too quickly Merchandise categories and idea chart
Staging: the process or manner of putting on a performance on a stage; also called set design for fashion show production Incorporates many parts: -Stage/runway design -Background design -Lighting design
Note: the stage and the runway aren’t the same thing Layout components: Staging Components: Runway, background, props, lighting, music, dressing area Why take time to develop a detailed layout? -Communicates dimensions to stage crew -Allows choreography development -Considers proximity to dressing area
-T-shape; H-shape Background: main purpose is to enhance the garments; either stark to make the garments stand out, or dramatic to communicate the theme Props: again, there to highlight the garments; cyclical trend; may be mobile or stationary Lighting: method and/or equipment to illuminate the stage and runway; necessary to show clothing, set the mood, accentuate the theme; careful not to blind audience Music: a combination of sounds to enhance the atmosphere for the audience AND the models; should communicate theme and inspiration source; beat of music controls pace of models -Sound designers and music directors make LOTS of money to create soundtracks for runway shows; consider way more music than you think you will need; plan music for each scene; best BPM: 95-125; avoid avant-garde music Live Music: more exciting, more personal, more expensive Pre-recorded Music: more convenient, more cost effective, more easily “on-trend” Dressing area: area designated for changing clothes, applying make-up, and styling hair; needs to accommodate LOTS of people and LOTS of clothing racks -Must have enough room that clothing can hang without wrinkling; remove all excess clutter; plan space to accommodate models entering and exiting stage; group garments by model In the days leading up to the show: crazy with rehearsals, backstage prep, the show itself, and wrapping things up
Types of rehearsals: Run-through: practicing sequences and choreography Dress rehearsal: walk-through with garment exchanges Full dress rehearsal: walk-through with everything (full garments, music, timing, set, etc) More rehearsals needed: complex choreography, dramatic staging, amateur models Less rehearsals needed: simple choreography, simple staging, professional models Considerations: All necessary spaces must be reserved; set up stage/runway; inform personnel of timeline; organize clothing and accessories; finalize line-up Backstage staff Dressers: the individuals who help the models change garments Incredibly important people; each model should have own changing area; good dresser can handle multiple models; have garments ready (buttons undone, zippers open); must know looks intimately; must know how to care for clothing Starter: aka cue person, individual responsible for cueing the models onto the stage in the correct order at the right time using the final line-up Works closely with fashion show director; understands overall timing and knows auditory cues; gives models final inspection; sometimes multiple starts are used Last minute backstage prep Last minute backstage prep: Make sure everything is done 30 minutes before start; if you have an MC, make they have final script; distribute program to seats or ushers; garments/accessories prepped; final check on stage, runway, and set Showtime: make sure to start on time; keep communication throughout show; pay attention to audience reaction Closing the show: make sure to include something that clearly indicates to audience that show is closing; ideas: most dramatic look, designer appearance, remarks by MC or fashion show director After the show: Stage Strike: physically disassembling the show; location should look like your show never happened; communicate with venue-make plans in advance; many hands make light work Merchandise Return: carefully checking inventory; perform necessary repairs and cleaning; make sure to use vendors approved by owner of merchandise; complete these tasks as quickly as possible Write thank you notes Evaluate your performance Yüklə 63,77 Kb. Dostları ilə paylaş:
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