Full text of "Narrative of the war with China in 1860; to which is added the account of a short residence with the Tai-ping rebels at Nankin and a voyage from thence to Hankow"

Towards the latter end of May all preparations for our campaign in the north were completed, and the troops embarked, the army being organised as follows: —

The 1st division, consisting of the 1st Regiment (Royals); 2nd Regiment (Queen's); 31st Regiment; 60th Regiment (Rifles); 15th Punjaub Infantry; Loodianah

Regiment; Lieut.-Colonel Barry's and Captain Desborough's batteries of Royal Artillery; Lieut.-Colonel Fisher’s company of Royal Engineers — all under the command of Major-General Sir John Michel, K.C.B.

The 2nd division, consisting of the 3rd Regiment (Buffs); 44th Regiment; 67th Regiment; 99th Regiment; 8th Punjaub Infantry; 19th Punjaub Infantry; Captains Moubray's and Govan's batteries of Royal Artillery; and Major Graham's company of Royal Engineers — all under the command of Major-General Sir Robert Napier, K.C.B.

The Cavalry Brigade, consisting of two squadrons of the 1st or King's Dragoon Guards; Probyn's Horse (1st Sikh Cavalry); Fane's Horse; and Captain Millward's battery of Royal Artillery — all under the command of Brigadier Pattle, C.B.

There was also a battery of mountain guns manned by Madrassees, about 250 Madras sappers and miners, and a small siege-train with Major Pennycuick's company of Royal Artillery.

The total strength amounting to 14,000 of all ranks.

Our hired transports numbered 120, and our royal navy force consisted of seventy pennants, counting gunboats.

Several fine steamers had been fitted up as hospitals, under the superintendence of Dr. Muir, C.B., the principal medical officer to the expedition.

Ample stores of tents, camp equipage, &c. &c, together with all requisites for an army in the field, were sent north along with the troops.

England has never before opened a campaign with such a well-organised or a more efficient force. Nothing that could add to the health or comfort of the men was neglected, and all that talent or ability could do, to render an army perfect, was provided for.

The infantry that were to make the voyage to the Gulf of Pechili in sailing vessels left Hong-kong about the middle of May.

In order that the horses should be on board ship for as short a time as possible, the cavalry and horsed batteries of artillery were to be towed up by steamers, making the voyage in a shorter time. Consequently they did not leave until the beginning of June.

In March, April and May, the north-east monsoon blows down the coast of China, dying away, however, towards the end of May, the wind veering round then and blowing from the south-west. To tow large transports against the monsoon is out of the question, so the expected change in the weather was anxiously looked forward for by every one, as the month of May approached its conclusion.

On Friday the 1st June the weather was considered by the Admiral as sufficiently settled for a start, so all the cavalry transports got under weigh, the men-of-war steamers taking them in tow by twos and threes. During the night it came on to blow hard in the wrong direction, and continued doing so for the two following days. None of the vessels could make any way against it, so one by one they all put back into Hong-kong, some seriously the worse for their cruise, and all bearing about them evidences of having endured rough weather.

Towing steamers in bad weather is a most difficult operation; the ships run foul of the steamers and these latter run into the ships; bulwarks are knocked in and rigging carried away. However, the officers of our navy take all such little misfortunes as matters of course, and set to work immediately after each, as if such had necessarily formed a part of the operation.

In a few days all our vessels were again ready for another start.

Admiral Hope seemed determined that the nautical superstition about sailing on a Friday should be well tested, for on Friday the 8th June all the transports again weighed anchor and put to sea. The ill-luck which is said usually to attend all expeditions so commenced, made itself felt again, for the fleet encountered such strong head winds, that it was forced to put into the shelter afforded by Lam-yit island, which had been named before starting as a half- way rendezvous in case of bad weather.

The coast of China between Hong-kong and Shanghai was uninteresting looking, wherever we had any opportunities of seeing it. At some few points there were hills with bold outlines stretching away inland, but generally the country looked barren near the sea. Numbers of fishing villages stand along the coast, the inhabitants of which depend mainly upon their lines and nets for subsistence. They are a most hardy people, inured from childhood to maritime occupations, and ever ready to act as pirates, when opportunities present themselves for doing so. Their little fishing boats are to be met with a long way out to sea, even in rough weather, generally sailing in large squadrons, as a precaution against piratical attacks.

It seems strange that China, with her immense seaboard and her great fishing population of brave and hardy fishermen, should be still so backward in naval science. With the magnetic compass in their possession for ages past they have never made long voyages, and have almost exclusively confined their maritime expeditions to their own coast and its neighbouring islands. With the material ever at her disposal, China, if under a strong and enlightened government, is capable of being made the greatest naval power in the world. What if, in some future time, a "Peter the Great" should arise in China? Such an event might change the whole face of the inhabited globe, and the coasts of Europe experience the miseries of barbarian inroads, to which those of the Goths and

Vandals by land were but as child's play.

We put into Shanghai for a few days, when on our way towards the north, and had time for an inspection of that place and its neighbourhood. Shanghai — meaning in English, "the upper sea," is situated upon the left bank of the Woosung river, or rather creek, which connects the numerous lakes in the Kiang-su province with the Yang-tse-kiang. Shanghai is an old walled city, and a place of very great native trade.

All celestial cities bear a strong resemblance one to the other. Narrow, ill-paved streets, swarming with leprous-looking beggars; dirt, filth, and every conceivable stench abounding everywhere, are the principal characteristics of the mural dens of abomination yclept cities in China. The walls were of brick, and had suffered both from time and cannon shot; they were being repaired, and the ditches were being deepened. Numbers of rusty old cannon peered through the ridiculously constructed embrasures, and others were being mounted: guards of native soldiers were at the gates, but the men were ill-clothed and worse armed; their only mark distinguishing them from the commonalty, was a circular piece of white calico sewn on behind to their loose-sleeved jackets; upon this calico badge was written the name of the regiment and company to which they belonged, some being styled the "bravest of the brave," "loyal volunteers," and such like high-sounding titles. Hung around the walls in conspicuous places were small wooden cages containing each a human head; some of these had been hanging there since the place had been retaken from the rebels, others were of much more recent date, being the heads of pirates and those who had been convicted of assisting in the kidnapping of coolies by the Americans and French, about which there had been such serious commotion.

There were large tea-gardens within the city, where all the rockery, high-arched bridges and tiny little islands, so common in all such places in China, were in abundance: the picture in the well known willow pattern gives a very fair idea of what they are like.

The ponds of water were extremely dirty, there being no current through them. Upon the island were some little joss-houses, several theatres, tea-shops, restaurants, peep-shows without number, itinerant jugglers and mountebanks of all sorts, besides a proportion of fortune-tellers, who seem to drive a good trade. These last-mentioned used in their pretended revelations a small board about eighteen inches square, which they kept wet upon one side with a species of blue paint, which they rubbed off with the forefinger or nail into all sorts of curious representations of birds or beasts, executed with the greatest rapidity and artistic skill. I only stopped to examine one juggler's performance; it was most indifferent, the interest in it evidently consisting in the chaff which he maintained all through with his audience.

The European settlement of Shanghai extends along the river to the north of the native city. When viewed from the water it presents a fine appearance, the houses being very well built, and having pretty gardens in front; there is a well-to-do air about them, which proclaims that mercantile operations in China pay well. A long quay runs in front of the houses between them and the river, which forms the usual promenade of the place; from it long lines of houses run at right angles. Building ground has risen greatly in value, and the rent of houses is most exorbitant. Several countries have consuls there: the English consulate is a fine large building, standing in a conspicuous place. The English and American influence was, before the war, all-powerful; but since the establishment of a French force within the settlement, our allies share it along with us.

Shanghai is a strange example of a place where there is no generally recognised authority and no regularly established laws. The land upon which the settlement has been built, is rented from the Chinese authorities, but all the local improvements, in the way of roads, quays, &c, are paid for by the foreign community; each nation maintains its own police. Upon arriving there we found every one panic-stricken; the rebels had lately made themselves masters of the important town of Soochow, and were steadily advancing towards Shanghai, which they announced their intention of taking at all hazards. All the Chinese merchants were flying from the place, taking their goods and families with them. Most of the native shops were closed in the city, and where only a month before hundreds of trading junks lay at anchor, scarcely one of any size remained; the few boats still plying about were engaged in the removal of furniture and other property. Ho, the governor of the province, who had been residing in Shanghai since the loss of

Soochow, had sent his family away to Chee-foo, to which place thousands of other people had also fled. All trade had ceased, and alarm prevailed everywhere. Numbers of wretched people, who had lost all their property in Soochow or other places taken by the rebels, came flocking in daily, crowding the streets and begging for bread at the very doors of our merchants. Large subscriptions were made for them, and the money distributed under the superintendence of the Protestant clergymen. Our mercantile community were uneasy about their property; and all knew that their lives would be in danger if the rebels poured down upon the place. At the earnest entreaty of the

Chinese officials, a battalion of Royal Marines was landed and quartered in those places around the settlement and city, where they might command the approaches to the place and at the same time find accommodation. The north gate, a joss-house on the Soochow creek and the Ningpo guild-house, were accordingly occupied, and fitted up at the Mandarins' expense as barracks for our men. A house was hired within our settlement as quarters for 200 men with officers. This being a central point, was strengthened by three small guns; the French also held a gate of the city, and occupied some houses within the place. The Loodianah Regiment of Sikhs was ordered up from Hong-kong, and the 11th Punjaub Regiment was subsequently added to the garrison. The neighbourhood of Shanghai abounds in defensible positions, and the line of defence which we had taken up was further strengthened by fortifying some detached houses and constructing some little fieldworks toward the flanks. The Soochow creek, which was navigable for some distance for our gunboats, enabled us to bring a cross fire from thence upon an enemy approaching the settlement. Ho, the Governor-General, called upon Mr. Bruce, our minister, and proposed that we should send a force up to Soochow and retake that place. If we consented he was kind enough to promise that he would write to Pekin and inform his Celestial Majesty of our valuable services, and added that he had no doubt we should thus obtain easily all that we demanded. The Russian minister arrived from Pekin during our stay at Shanghai.

Shanghai, for a stranger, is one of the dullest places under heaven; for a man without any employment there never was a more dreadful station. Nothing but a desire to grow rich could induce men to reside there; one racket court, no club, a stiflingly hot room, surrounded by book shelves, called by the inhabitants a library, a dismal-looking race-course enclosed by deep and unwholesome-looking ditches, are the places of public amusement.

If, however, hospitality can in any way compensate for all drawbacks in a locality, Shanghai is peculiarly happy. The English merchant princes of China, if they know how to make money, most certainly know how to spend it regally. The open house kept by one firm at all our ports in China exceeds in liberality and kindness anything of the sort I have ever even heard of, whilst all others, on scales commensurate with their means, follow the brilliant example thus set to them. Our principal amusement during our stay at Shanghai was in boating expeditions up the river, and walking excursions into the country. A fine pagoda stands near the river, about six miles above the city. It is evidently of comparatively recent construction, being in good repair all through; it is about one hundred feet in height, and stands upon a small creek which empties itself, at about a mile's distance, into the Woosung river. It is six stories high, and commands from the top a fine, extensive view over the surrounding country. There is no part of the world to which distance lends more enchantment to the scenery than in China. When actually amongst the highly-manured fields of that empire, the olfactory organs are so rudely assailed by the variety of stenches, always encountered by the inexperienced traveller who seeks for rural pleasures, amidst the corn-growing farms of the " flowery land," that a second trip across the fields is seldom taken. These same localities, when viewed from some elevated spot or building to which the foul odours from manure cannot penetrate, present generally a most pleasing picture. Looking around from this pagoda, I was much struck by the rural beauty of the scene. As far as the eye could see, it rested upon well tilled and highly cultivated fields without hedges or walls; in every direction junks are to be seen sailing or being towed along by men. At first sight they seem as if going in some mysterious manner overland, as no water is visible anywhere; but upon closer examination the muddy banks of small canals may be discovered, which form a regular network over the country, and serve not only as the boundaries of property, but as the highways of the province. These quaint boats, with their odd-looking combination of bamboos and matting which pass for sails in China, form most picturesque objects in a landscape. With the exception of the fruit trees growing around the farm-houses, the only other trees to be seen are stunted willows and a few sallows overhanging the steep, slimy banks of the numerous creeks. Small hamlets and neatly-constructed cottages lay dotted about over the plain, each and all possessing a well-stocked orchard or vegetable garden.

No grass land or meadows were to be seen anywhere; every little nook being carefully dug or ploughed. The only spots untouched by the spade were those where the coffins of deceased fathers, mothers, or other relations lay overground. In the neighbourhood of

Shanghai interment is very rare. When a man dies his son puts the body into a well-made coffin, and either keeps it in the house with him, or places it carefully on a dry spot in his farm; sometimes, if his means permit, building a tiny shed over it, or thatching it over with straw. In the attack upon Shanghai by the Imperialists, when that place was in possession of the rebels, these coffins were freely used by the besiegers in the construction of their batteries; and, indeed, in the attack upon any Chinese city they should have to be used extensively in such works. There being no underwood or other material suitable for gabions, coffins would supply their place most admirably. The creek upon which the pagoda stood was spanned by a bridge, near its confluence with the river. This bridge, like all those of stone which I saw in that part of the country, consisted simply of high stone piers, between which were laid long slabs of granite, some being twenty-five feet from one bearing point to the other. A tête de pont had been lately constructed for its defence, which in make, appearance, and, I should imagine, substantiality, was about as formidable as the cardboard castles which we see in theatres: it consisted of thin mud walls, castellated at top with fraises in front, of about the same strength as Japan toothpicks. Its garrison was about a hundred of the very dirtiest looking rabble, who lay about sleeping, smoking, or gambling; their arms were a few long, unmeaning-looking spears, and some rusty matchlocks and jingalls. The theatrical effect of the scene was considerably heightened by a large assortment of flags of all sorts of colours and shapes. Judging from the tout ensemble of the place and its defenders, I should fancy that a spirited attack made by a few old women armed with pokers and dustpans would meet with success.

When returning from one of these trips up the river, we fell in with a large fleet of armed junks all crowded with soldiers. They were anchored a little above the city, but were then beating gongs, burning joss-sticks, letting off crackers, and firing guns almost every minute, which were certain indications of a move. In case of an attack upon Shanghai by the rebels, this armed rabble would most probably have either joined them or at least have helped to plunder the place. So their presence was considered dangerous, and they were, in consequence, ordered by our authorities to go down the liver to Woosung, which is twelve miles below our settlement. In the evening they all weighed anchor and sailed down past our men-of-war in grand procession, colours flying from every mast, gongs beating, and firing blank ammunition whilst near our ships, making altogether as pretty a little piece of naval pageantry as I have ever seen.

There is a very fine cathedral belonging to the French Jesuits standing upon the river south of Shanghai. Its exterior is ugly in the extreme, but within every attention is paid to effect, coloured paper being used instead of stained glass for the windows, which throws a subdued light upon the interior. A number of very badly executed oil paintings are hung around the walls, amongst which I looked in vain for the representation of the holy mother, described by some recent tourist as drawn with small feet. Like many other travellers' stories it was amusing, but untrue. There is, however, one large painting, representing a heavenly party, the male figures in which are drawn with tails, and in Chinese costume. We were shown over the church by a fat China boy, who said he was a Christian, and as we were upon the point of leaving, we were joined by a French priest, dressed so exactly after the fashion of the country, that I should never have known him to be a European, had I met him in the streets. One of our party was completely taken in, and remarked when we left the place, "How very well that Chinaman spoke French."

Upon leaving Shanghai, three days' easy steaming in calm weather took us into the Gulf of Pechili.

The plan of operations agreed upon for the campaign, was that the French should rendezvous at Che-foo, where there was a small bay affording tolerable anchorage, and good protection in bad weather. There was a considerable town of that name upon the bay, from which our allies hoped to draw supplies, the Shantung province being rich in cattle, of which (and of draught animals in particular) they were much in want. It was intended to fortify some position there, in which a small garrison should be left when the army started for the Peiho. Che-foo was too small for both armies, good fresh water being scarce, and the bay too limited in extent for our immense fleet.

There were only two other places which, according to our charts, and the reconnaissance made along all the gulf's coasts by Colonel Fisher, R.E., would answer for our purposes. These were Wei-hei-wei and Talienwan, the former situated upon the western shore of the Gulf of Pechili.

The ship I was in touched there, so I had an opportunity of inspecting the place.

Our party started from the Grenada in three boats, and made for a small village to the north of the town, situated on the northern shore of the bay in which we anchored. As we neared the place we saw hundreds of people collecting from all sides to greet us upon landing. Close by, upon an elevated part of the beach, two guns were in position, but no battery had been constructed for their protection.

The houses of the village were built in most accurately laid-out lines, coming down close to the water's edge, and looking as neat and clean as those of the best and nicest watering-place in England. They were almost all thatched, some with straw, but most of them with a peculiar description of white sea-weed, which seemed to stand the weather remarkably well. Each house had a chimney, consisting of a large, round flue of earthenware, burnt in one piece. What was so striking in the appearance of the houses was the excellence of the wood-work, the doors and windows all fitting accurately, and being well-finished. Of course there was no glass, paper being used instead, as it is everywhere throughout China. The houses were almost exclusively built of granite. The blocks were all cut or broken so as to fit closely together, and as they were of every description of curious rectilineal figure, triangles and hexagons mixed up indiscriminately, and the joinings carefully pointed with black cement, the side of a house seemed as if covered with a gigantic spider's web. I have never before seen any town or village in which there did not seem to be at least a few houses falling into decay from neglect or other causes; but here, no such addition was made to the general picturesque appearance of the place; for not only were the roofs all neatly and regularly thatched, but the eaves and ridges were mathematically parallel.

Our interpreter having landed and procured a guide, we pulled round the bay, and landed on the open beach, which runs in front of the east side of the walled city, and about 500 yards from it. The beach is steep, and looks as if well beaten by waves occasionally. About a dozen trading junks were drawn up along it, mostly laden with corn, which they were discharging. Stretching inland from the shore there were about a hundred yards of deep sand, and then cultivation up to the city walls. Men and boys were busily engaged in reaping when we landed, and some fields had already been cut, while others were being ploughed. The plough used is something like that so universal throughout India, but cuts deeper, having a double iron blade. The implement they were reaping with was a short scythe, used in a manner similar to that of our reaping-hook. There were no paddy-fields, and I doubt even the possibility of cultivating rice in these parts, owing to the absence of running streams, and the soil not being capable of holding water after rain. Well fed and tended mules were used for ploughing, but in some places there were small oxen, and on the island Lung-meau-doweah, which shelters the harbour on the east side, I saw donkeys, and, in one instance, two donkeys with a bullock yoked in between them. I was amused when passing under the walls into the city to find that, although the fortifications had been recently repaired, there were no doors or gates, and no attempt had apparently ever been made to secure this most important part of a city's defences. Within the city were numerous fields and gardens, the former growing corn and other crops, not usually met with in a fortified city. The houses were few, the streets wide, cleanly kept, and devoid of those horrors and that filth which one invariably sees in large cities of the south. We paid a visit to the civil mandarin of the place, with whom we partook of some of the common beverage of the country, which refreshes without intoxicating; and having informed him that we should very probably land in a few days with a large force, we bade him adieu, leaving him much less happy than he had been previous to our visit. Our inquiries regarding water were not successful. But as we thought that the mandarin's assurances regarding its deficiency might have arisen from interested motives, we resolved upon making a tour of inspection round the country the following day.