Oka owners group newsletter
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For a lot more about Efoys, see www.efoy.com/en/mobile-homes-faqs.html . Here’s my over- view: The Efoy dimensions are 435 x 200 x 276. If you mount it somewhere (I haven't yet) you need some room both sides to get airflow through. Airflow in and airflow out; I think it would be 100mm diameter flex tube that comes with the unit, along with an elbow and a vent face. It pro- duces a little heat so if it can get clean airflow it will work better. The exhaust needs a 10mm (yes 10mm) hole for the tube, if the Efoy is mounted 'indoors'. Incidentally I found the exhaust was actually the noisiest thing; a quiet two- or three-second old man spit every hour or so! Tube length might change that, as I still have a metre hanging off it. The fuel container should be mounted alongside (side or end, not blocking the airflow). There are five- or ten-litre containers. The ten-litre is pretty much a cube. You just replace containers as required, rather than refill. Electrical connection is just a small - 50A I think it is - Anderson plug. Connecting it to a battery circuit activates it, and from there it can be fully automatic; when the battery gets down to 12.3V, the fuel cell starts itself, and when the charge is back at somewhere north of 13V, it hibernates again. There is a control panel that lets you do more, but in our applications I don't think you'd want to. You can leave it all untouched until you run out of fuel, and it just does its job. That surely has to be better than risking damaging a battery because you couldn't get charge to it when it should have had it. If you have solar connected too, the fuel cell will just do less work. The Efoy weighs less than eight kilos, and a full ten-litre fuel container weighs 8.4kg. They rec- ommend installation in the sub-floor compartment, in the sub-floor itself or the rear storage area. At peak load, a fuel cell "exhales" approximately the same components and volume that the breath of a young child contains: a warm, moist mixture of carbon dioxide and, to a lesser extent, oxygen. It meets zero-emission requirements, so it can definitely be installed inside. I bought mine from www.eco-camper.com (Colin Ricketts, colin.ricketts@kimberleygroup.com.au , good to his word, 02 6620 6888)(along with some of their LED ceiling lights, which are excellent). One thing that swung me in their direction was that they install a second fan into the body of the Efoy, as a standard thing, which naturally helps cooling the unit if you’re operating it in extreme temperatures. The standard unit is good to 40°C before it demands to take a rest, but the second fan takes that figure higher. Incidentally other reports I have seen show that the automatic safeguarding (cut out and re-starting) all works as you’d want it to. Anybody want to buy my generator? Hal Harvey OKA 260 www.oka4wd.com Reviving Oka Door Catches Are your Oka doors difficult to open? Do you have to slam the doors several times to close them properly? Do they fly open unexpectedly on rough tracks? We've experienced all of the above so I investigated further. Dust and grit are the first suspects for making the door catches recalci- trant, followed by wear and tear. Fortunately the door catches are in- dustrial strength and are quite easily fixed. Dust and Grit The door is held shut by a 2 position ratchet and pawl system. (See Pic 1 centre). Grit and dust can dry out the grease between moving sur- faces increasing frictional forces. This makes closing and opening dif- ficult since the plates won't slide smoothly and the pawl won't always drop into the ratchet, despite the strong spring. A full overhaul re- quires the removal of the door mechanism from inside the door, see the Power Door Lock blog post for details on how to remove the catches (you might need to log-in to the Oka Owners Group website). Pic 1. The Ratchet and Pawl Sys- tem. Degreasing and cleaning out all the gritty sludge from the mechanism is the best solution followed by a full re-oiling of rotating components and re-greasing of the sliding plates. Also ensure that the ratchet to pawl spring is not stretched and is correctly fitted. It should be quite difficult to remove as it's quite strong. Dust can enter via the rectangular cut out in the side of the door through which the catch protrudes, particularly the depressed rivet area, (see pic below), which allows free access for dust into the door cavity. The answer is a layer of thin closed cell foam strip stuck around the opening before the catch is refitted. The foam will compress during assembly and form a good dust barrier. Wear and Tear The next problem is wear and tear on the barrel which transfers the tension from the external latch to the internal ratchet and pawl sys- tem. Normally the ratchet plate is in line with the pawl, but when the barrel shaft or sliding surfaces are worn, under extreme shock (eg from a bump on a rough track or the door being slammed shut), the plate can move out of line. The pawl can then jump out of the ratchet and the door flies open, or won't close securely. (See Pic 3). Pic 3. A worn barrel al- lows the ratchet to jump free from the pawl. Pic 2. Dust can enter here Wear on the barrel creates a gap between the door catch and the barrel spacer (see Pic 4). This is more difficult to fix since the plates at either end are sweated on and peened over to prevent movement. Pic 4. The gap caused by wear on the barrel. A simple solution is to wind one or 2 turns of fine galvanised fencing wire around the outside of the barrel to take up the wear gap. (See Pic 5) This reduces the inward movement of the internal ratchet plate and prevents the pawl from jumping out of the ratchet. A large circlip would be a better solution but would be difficult to in- sert. By contrast, fencing wire is quick and easy to fit. gap. Pic 5. Wires can fill the You don't even have to remove the catch to make this fix. It can be done from outside. It might not last for ever but it's cheap, quick and effective, and easy to replace. It can also be done on the rear tailgate catches on the bus model. The last(?) wear and tear problem is the latch plate which hits the striker. This is often worn and won't hold the striker rod tightly and securely. Pic 6. This latch plate (from a tailgate) has been heavilyrepaired and is badly worn. The only easy solution to this problem is to lay some weld on the worn "C" shape (it should be a nice "U" shape) and file it down so it fits and turns on the striker rod smoothly. It's not a quick job but will make a lot of difference to door closing and retention. If the striker rod itself is worn, as mine were, you could wrap a layer of steel shim around it to pack out the wear. This worked surprisingly well for several years. Alternatively, weld could be laid on the worn part of the rod and filed/ground round. Finally, ensure that the striker plates on the door frames are adjusted properly (so that the door closes tightly without slamming and doesn't rattle) and the Allen headed screws done up tight so the plate can't move. BTW, never remove all the Allen screws at the same time. The threaded lock plate inside the door frame can drop down, never to be seen again. And why not grease the door hinges while you're at it? I'll bet that doesn't get done very often because I've found it's necessary to remove the door stay strut on some doors to allow the door to open far enough to access the grease nipples. Subject: Julie and Geoff say congratulations and good-bye Hello,
We have followed the progress of the Oka Owners’ club and, although not active participants, we read with interest all the news posted on it. We plan to retire at the end of 2010 and will sell our 1995 Oka to a good home. The vehicle has 225,000 ks on the clock and for the last ten and a half years it has been parked at Cooper Creek Homestay here in Innamincka, where we occasionally used it to transport guests to and from the airport. We want to take this opportunity to send greetings to Lloyd and all the like-minded Oka owners who have visited us in Innamincka over the last ten years. Although we will no longer operate Cooper Creek Homestay, we hope to stay in our home and venture off on periodic excursions around Australia. We may meet some of you then. Enquiries re the retiring Oka may be made by emailing us: fourmatthews@bigpond.com or by telephoning us on 08 86759591. Cheers for now, Julie and Geoff Matthews TECH NOTES Steering Rattle Endless Air Soundproofing Paint Colour Alloy Wheels & Off-road tyres Spring Hanger conversion Kit Air Bags Alternator belt burnt out Brakes High Lift Jack Points Safety for bottle jacks Intercooler Tyres
2007 Dec 2006 March 2005 Clutch Cable snapped Broken Spring make-do Shackle Pin – Rear Spring Tie Rod Ends NEWSLETTER Summer 2010 Summer 2010 Summer 2010 Summer 2010 Summer 2009 Winter 2009 June 2007 Winter 2009 Winter 2009 Winter 2009 Spring 2009 Spring 2009 Spring 2009 Spring 2009 Nov 2004 December 2007 Autumn 2009 June Nov 2004 June 2004 Autumn 2009 Autumn 2009 Autumn 2009 June 2008 Nutserts
Alternator Tensioning Mod. Speedo Wiring Diagram Air Intake Noise Gauge replacements HF Radio Speedo Sensor Axles 2006 Diesel/Gas Oka Tech Notes – Collyn Rivers Low Water Level Sensor Air Filters Steering Arm Broken Clutch
Rear Diff. Exhaust Stacks Tachos Rims
Accelerator cable Tyre Pressures June 2008 March 2008 Sept 2007 March 2007 Dec 2007 June 2006 Feb 2006 Nov 2005 Nov 2005 March 2005 March 2005 Nov 2004 Nov 2004 Nov 2004 Nov 2004 Sept 2004 June 2004 June 2004 June 2004 June 2004 June 2004 April/May Feb 2004 Feb 2004
April 2004 Window Washer Airconditioning Steering Damper Electric Air Compressor Batteries Springs April/May 2006 April 2004 Dec 2003 Dec 2003 Dec 2003 April 2003 ! ! ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! ! OKA OWNERS GROUP (PUTTING PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT FIRST) NEWSLETTER !Spring 2010 ! Hi Everyone, ! Our travels this year didn’t go as planned, and I would imagine that the same is true of others who travel in the winter months. We set off in early July, through the Flinders Ranges (where we did the 1-day Skytrek 4wd track) and up the Oodnadatta track to Dalhousie Springs. The Springs were as usual magic, but the road in was pretty corrugated. From there we headed north from Mt Dare, and past Old Andado, which we were surprised to find on the other side of a lake and very green. It showered as we arrived, but soon stopped and we headed on north to the turnoff to the Mac Clarke Reserve. The roads had been getting progressively wetter, and the road in to the Reserve was a sheet of water, but as it was camp time so we stopped there beside the road. As we went to bed, it started to rain, and it rained, thundered and poured all night. We woke up in a lake, and so we drove up the nearby sandhill and camped on top for a couple of days to let it dry out a bit. The state of the roads left us in little doubt that the Madigan Line wasn’t a good plan for this year, so we made for Alice Springs and then came on home by way of Bedourie and Quilpie. ! Other than the tyres, our Oka was almost trouble free, the almost being a leaking front oil seal on the R side wheel, which has been replaced since we came home. We were accompanied by 3 other Okas and 2 Toyotsa, and they too had little trouble except a hole in an airbag (fixed with a tyre plug) and a starting problem, so that was OK. ! The new website is going very well, and it is good to see the forum being used extensively. If you have any problems, give it a go and you will probably have an answer in a very short space of time. You will need to register as an owner to gain access, but it is a simple process that you can do online. The website address is:www.oka4wd.com! or you can email Hal if you have problems at! hal@bluewater.net.au . I will use some of the topics from there in the newsletter, as there are still a good proportion of our members without internet access, or who don’t use computers at all. ! Since we came home, we have had a visit from Paul Nott, and as usual he was a mine of information about Oka’s. One thing that has stuck in my mind is that Paul now keeps in stock new starter motors. These are cheaper than Nippondenso (much cheaper than the original ones) and don’t give any trouble. He has them specially modified to suit the Oka and they are ready to bolt straight on. The brand name is ISKA, and he swears by them. Paul was on his way to Cape York, and so while you can still ring him when he is in range, he won’t be able to send parts to you for a little while. Paul actually supplies Oka with some parts, so it is probably worth giving him a ring first, although he is the first to say that it is cheaper to get some things from Oka, especially new panels, which they keep in stock. ! We have had an email telling us of the very first Oka rally to be held in Queensland; see below for the details, and we hope to see some of you there. ! Marj Parsons !!!!!! !! GATTON, QUEENSLAND RALLEY Hi from Lynn & Yvonne Fraser Oka 154 We are authors of remote travel guides, and are planning a book signing of our Cape York travel guide “Cape York A 4wd Experience” at the Lockyer Valley Cultural Centre and Transport Museum at Gatton, Queensland.. To make this event more interesting, we are planning in conjunction with the Transport Museum to have a display of Okas that are privately owned. This display will enable the public to enjoy viewing the different types of Okas and how they are set up, and give them an opportunity to talk to the owners before they visit the This will take place on Sunday 31st October 2010 from 10am-3pm. The Okas will be parked near the entrance of the complex in a roped-off area (the public will not be allowed inside the vehicles unless the owners want them to). We would like to also use this opportunity to have a Weekend Get Together with a camp over Saturday 30th October. This event is being planned with the co-operation of the Lockyer Valley Council, and they will provide Free Camping on the Saturday night nearby and Free Entry to the Transport Musem for every Oka owner on the Sunday. They will also advertise the event. We would like to have as many Okas as possible attend, so if you could email to us expressions of interest in attending either Saturday & Sunday or just Sunday, so we can advise the centre on our expected numbers. It is also a good excuse to all get together and meet more Oka owners. We look forward to your feedback. Lynn & Yvonne Fraser...downthetrackaust@hotmail.com ************* TACHOS
Hi Thanks
My tacho has played up in the past and the 2 things which caused it were either a loose fan belt or water spray would make it slip as the tacho is driven by the back of the alternator. If there is a problem with the alternator not charging correctly, this will also send the tacho out. Hope this is of some use. Paul & Sue Crompton October 4, 2010 at 7:22 AM G’day,
Check the connector at back of Alternator. I Bit hard to explain October 4, 2010 at 8:22 AM Yes the problem will be the connector that goes into the alternator, there are 2 wires that go in and most likely one will be broken and not contacting all the time hence the bouncing of the Tacho. One should also see that the red light for charge can also flicker and that it will not possible be charging correctly too as it runs the Volt meter as well for charge. t corrodes. Now have it surrounded by Lanolin and has not happened since. If you look at it carefully one can reuse the connection by putting a fine object up the unit and prizing the keeper back and so on. Some good Electrical repair shops have the clips for the Electrical end which makes the job easier Hope this helps also ARE OKAS OVERPRICED? ****Hi all,
Given that most OKAs are above the 30 to 35k mark and some as high as 75k. Are they over priced? I thought that an OKA Ute was around the 60k new and a fully optioned tour bus was around the 80 to Given the limited market and for the same sort of coin you could get a 2002upwards Canter. What is the appeal?? Paying 30K plus for a vehicle that is approaching 20 years old doesn’t make a lot of Seems OKAs are getting more than 50% of the original purchase price 18 years later. Surely there has to be a time when they will drop in value?? Engines etc are all getting older.
****Don’t think your biased, unless of course you haven’t owned both and only an OKA. I am not against an OKA and I haven’t had both. But done research on both. It seems most tourist companies have moved away from OKAs. Part of this may be that you couldnt get OKAs. However like I said 40K for a 15 yo vehicle is a bit steep. Then you have to look out beefing up diffs, perhaps a engine change etc etc. I know this is an OKA forum and as I have said I’m not against OKAs. In fact the next vehicle may be one. However they are getting to the age now where work needs to be done. It also seems a lot of people defend them, stating most started their life with mines and tourist companies and would’ve been abused. Wasn’t that the key market at the time? ****Some would say I’m biased too, but really, anybody trying to get value-for-money out of a motor vehicle will never get beyond a Hyundai Excel. Comparing things closer to apples, say for $50K you can get a 15-year-old Oka or a 10-year-old Canter (I don’t know if that’s right, but anyway...); which would you rather have? For my purposes, I would only have the Oka. Others may differ, but chances are those people would be the ones who would sell the vehicle again in five years; when they might get $45K for the 20-year-old Oka, or $30K for the 15-year- old Canter. All of which is only relevant if you sell it. Me, I just wouldn’t sell it. Except to buy a new one... and even then I might still keep it. What is the appeal? Part of it (beyond the HD mechanicals) is that every Oka has character. It’s not an option. I don’t think you can even get it fitted to a Mitsubishi. ****I agree that 40k for a vehicle that old and having travelled 3 or 400,000km is a bit hard to justify because it may need a fair bit of work to get it back to good condition. It is in original configuration and I am past the stage where I need to prove I can break things so I’m happy to drive it within its capabilities and hopefully not need to upgrade anything. ****Actually that ‘need to upgrade’ thing is so often personal situation too... mine has a heap of bolt-on accessories, some of which were definitely unnecessary (but still nice to have) ‒ but original motor, gearbox, transfer case, diffs (except air lockers added), axles; none of which I expect to spend any money on in the foreseeable.
every day now that the reason we purchased the Oka.s in the first place was that they are soooooooooo ****I agree that 40k for a vehicle that old and having travelled 3 or 400,000km is a bit hard to justify and had painted it (you guessed it) matt green for him. I had seen this vehicle in a used car yard in because it may need a fair bit of work to get it back to good condition. It is in original configuration and I am past the stage where I need to prove I can break things so I’m happy to drive it within its capabilities and hopefully not need to upgrade anything. ****Actually that ‘need to upgrade’ thing is so often personal situation too... mine has a heap of bolt-on accessories, some of which were definitely unnecessary (but still nice to have) ‒ but original motor, gearbox, transfer case, diffs (except air lockers added), axles; none of which I expect to spend any money on in the foreseeable.
****Very interesting topic. It is also interesting to consider the new prices. I was looking at building a motorhome on either an Oka, a Canter or an Isuzu 4WD. The Oka cab- chassis is around $120,000 and the two Setting Sun trucks were just over $60,000 ‒ about half the price of the Oka. However.... when I started to look at all the add-ons needed to make the Jappo trucks comfortable AND off-road capable the difference started to disappear. Suddenly the Oka looked like pretty good value. It also has the difficult to define “fun to drive” ‒ the Canter and Isuzu were just sooooo bland to drive. About as much fun as a Hyundai. And even if one does pay the money and get suspension etc etc upgraded on one of the Jap trucks, you are still left with those flimsy flex-o-matic chassis. On balance, the Oka is a bargain. I couldn’t afford a new one, so I bought a secondhand XT with 300,000 k’s up, and really it cannot be faulted. Love that huge robust chassis, the rated roll-over protection cabin, the superbly comfortable suspension but mostly, it is just such fun to drive. Bargain!! ****It really depends on what you want to do with the vehicle too. We built the camper on our OKA. It is a full bed-over-cab and the camper body is integral with the OKA cab. You simply can’t do that with a flexible chassis. The rigid chassis OKA196 Motorhome.http://www.oka4wd.com/xt196.htm ****Looooooong Springs! In June 2003 we were on our way to the Sandy Blight Junction Road in the OKA when we stopped off at Yulara for a night. Always having an eye out for ‘proper’ vehicles, I noticed a 2 door, matt green Hummer trying to sneak into the camping area and I quickly resolved to have a chat with the driver. The owner was one John Faulkner, a weathered man of very small stature but significant presence. He had just driven over from the West, cruising the Hummer at around 120kph along the Great Central Road via Warburton and Docker River. John was camping out of the back of the Hummer. He had a single burner gas cooker, a small bag of personal belongings and a swag. Two spare wheels and a tool kit occupied most of the balance of the cargo area. A pair of jocks was drying on the campground fence. Yüklə 2,02 Mb. Dostları ilə paylaş:
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