Tips and tricks

Tips and tricks

The purpose of this document is to give future students a bit of an insight in living in Amman, Jordan. If they decide (as they should!) to find an internship in this country the following 15 tips and tricks might help you on your way in getting used to some customs, unwritten rules and people.

If life gives you coffee, accept it. The offering of coffee is sacred for the people here, certainly the Bedouin ‘khahoewe’. When you’ve had enough, be sure to give the glass a little shake when you return it to the host, otherwise he will keep filling up the glass. It’s a small ceremony and the way it’s practiced depends on where you are. Sometimes they will stand in front of you until you finish (and shake) your glass.	Figuur : The offering of 'Khahoewe'
Don’t drink the Arabian/Turkish coffee entirely. If you drink it too fast, you’ll fill your mouth with the ‘sand’ on the bottom. It’s served in small glasses and has a very strong taste. Together with chai, they are the most popular drinks to consume in company. They are perfect after a meal or with a game of Jakaroo. Some people practice reading futures in the remaining sand of a finished ‘khahoewe’.	Figuur : Reading future in the coffee
Get a shave from one of the many talented barbers. They will shave your skin until it feels as soft as a baby’s butt. There’s something magical about the Arabic music in the background, the smell of the soap and the razor-sharp knife sliding across your skin. In the end they will use some sort of rope to remove surviving hairs and the whole event is definitely an experience worth having.	Figuur : The craftmanship of shaving
During Ramadan, even If you’re not fasting, don’t drink or eat on the street. It’s considered extremely rude and you can even get a fine for it. As a local, a night in prison for breaking these rules is considered normal, but as an expat, a 20JD fine will be given. During Ramadan it’s also forbidden to smoke cigarettes and this leaves many frustrated. The result is a tenser communication on the streets between the locals.	Figuur : Waiting for the evening prayer
Be ready to wait some time for appointments. It’s well known that people tend to be somewhat late for meetings and other plans. When you’re prepared for this, it will save you energy spent on being frustrated. You can bring a book for example to use the waiting time as best as possible. Be wary, as after a while you’ll start showing up late because you’re getting used to the ‘Jordanian time’.	Figuur : Books kill time best
If you’re fasting, a watermelon in the morning is the best solution to thirst during the day. People get up at 3 o’clock to eat ‘Shoerr’, the breakfast. After this they go back to sleep and don’t drink or eat until ‘Iftar’, the evening meal. If it’s not Ramadan and you want to drink something in the evening, arak (a local drink that resembles pastis) mixed with watermelon, is something you can try.	Figuur : A popular fruit, watermelon
Be sure to spend some time with Bedouins, and get to know the rich culture and openhearted people. They will tell you stories about donkeys, rocks and the infamous camel milk. They are easy to spot, a scarf on the head, cohon under the eyes and an everlasting smile. In the picture you see a rare Bedouin living in Jabal al-Weibdeh, Amman. His name is Hamada and I had the honor to live with him and he taught me a lot about the culture and customs of his culture.	Figuur : Eating mensef at home
One month of Arabic classes is too little to cover the richness of the language, but it’ll get you on your way for small conversations. I would recommend very much to take at least one month of Arabic lessons to get to know the beautiful writing and the complexity of the language. You will certainly not master it, for it takes multiple years to do so, but it gives you a broader look into the culture and the way people interact with one another.	Figuur : Cultural day in class
When getting into a taxi, a very much used service in Amman, be sure the taxi driver puts his taxi meter on. Otherwise you’ll find yourself arguing about the price on arrival. Since most of the taxi drivers also don’t speak English so well, it’ll be a difficult task to get the right price for your journey. When the taxi meter is on, at least the price is fixed and there’s no need to haggle.	Figuur : Taximeter
‘Insha’Allah’ is translated literally as ‘God willing’. This is a popular used expression in Arabic, and it means as much as a maybe. But most of the time the case is that a lot of people use it as a polite ‘no’. So, don’t get your hopes up if someone gives you the infamous ‘insha’Allah’ as a response to your proposal. After a while you’ll even find yourself using this expression as it’s easy to use, and a valid answer to a lot of questions.	Figuur : 'Insa'Allah'
Eat the famous falafel and hummus (and many more local dishes). There are some very well-known places which serve these generation-old traditional foods. The most famous places are hashem in downtown or al-quds in Rainbow Street. If you eat it too much though, certainly in the beginning of your stay, you might find yourself visiting the restroom quite a bit.	Figuur : Even the king comes sometimes to eat in Hashem Restaurant
As a woman, be prepared to get cat-called or whistled to. Apparently, the advice is to reply in your own language. Jordan, certainly Amman, is known to be quite harassing for women walking the street by themselves. I’ve heard from many expats, and even locals, stories of (verbal) harassment. Don’t be afraid to seek help from the police if it gets too far, since they are very strict on this kind of problem.	Figuur : On a daily basis
To meet awesome people, Jadal is the spot. Jadal for Knowledge and Culture is a social and cultural place where you can meet lots of interesting people from all kinds of backgrounds. You can go there for lots of local drinks (non-alcoholic), to study or to attend one of the many events going on. In the busy city of Amman, it functions as an oasis of calm space.	Figuur : The sign, seen from the colourful stairs
To find a place to live, on facebook there are many active groups where you can quite easily find an apartment. In the beginning of your stay and when you’re searching for rooms, the facebook community is very active on this popular social media website. It’s easy to find accommodation and to meet up with people. Most of the expats choose a room in Jabal al-Weibdeh or Jabal-Amman and this makes them the most easily accessible neighborhoods in Amman. Be wary that the streets of Amman are almost never flat and walking distances increase with intensity.	Figuur : Facebook, a tool as well!
If you want to check out the touristy places (Wadi Rum, Petra, the Dead Sea, etc..) it might be handy to know locals. They may offer you a meal of mansaf, a local famous dish eaten with the hands, with them and their family. Or they could show you the ‘hidden spots’ of the desert, and the wonder of the new world, known as Petra. In Petra you can also sleep with local Bedouins in caves, and listen when they sing and play the lute, although you might not get too much sleep as they play all night long.	Figuur : Making friends