Vintage Now Draft
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- Bu səhifədəki naviqasiya:
- Introduction T
- Main Body of the Paper
- Vintage Style of the late 1980’s and 1990’s
- Social Media is changing the way we look at the Fashion Industry
- Kendall Jenner
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Louise Boulet-Alips Wednesday, April 19, 2017 Final Research Paper Vintage Now Draft Integrative Seminar 2 Stephanie Nadalo
This research paper will explore the vintage style in the present time and look at the 1980s and 1990s fashion designer in addition to the role that social media, fashion photography, and nostalgia have in marketing today as well as the movement of influence. The movement’s influence is one of the key elements that will be shown in the studio project, which is a magazine that includes an article entitled: “How Fashion Icons influences our style?” taking Kendall Jenner as an example. Nostalgia is a major factor in marketing because most of the famous brands are using nostalgia to appeal to people with vintage products from Adidas and icons such as Kate Moss. All these factors are shown throughout the exclusive magazine on vintage style, entitled, “Vintage Mag.” This paper critically examines how the vintage style of the 1980s and 1990s is popular nowadays using evidence from interviews with fashion bloggers and photographers, articles, books, fashion magazines and documentaries. These sources will help to demonstrate why the vintage style is present in today’s fashion world. One reason is the generation cycle; we are aware of our parents’ childhood trends. The second is nostalgia, which is a major aspect within luxury brands that make us feel that it is “cool” to be vintage. The last point is the influence from fashion icons which is having a role in why the vintage style is coming back in the present time.
This is how the W Magazine begins their article by Kyle Munzenrieder: The '80s Will Be The Biggest Trend of 2017, For Better or Worse. Marc Jacobs was on to something when he threw a recent party in Brooklyn with a wildly specific dress code that started with the mandate of `Chic '80s.’ Apparently, in 2017 we'll all be wearing 1980s-inspired clothing, at least according to two of the latest analytical forecasts of next year's trends.1 The vintage style is a perennial movement throughout the ages thanks to the timelessness of the influence that today’s fashion icons have on every one of us. In the world of fashion, designers, models, magazine editors, photographers, and bloggers influence us every day in how we interact, dress, and express ourselves. In fact, as someone living in a time that is very influenced by social networks, I have decided to concentrate not only on the vintage style of the 80s and 90s, which is the past generation, but also on fashion photography. Given that my argument is going to prove why the 80s and 90s styles are coming back nowadays, it would be helpful for the creation of my final studio project entitled Vintage Mag which is a prototype for the fashion magazine that examines the vintage style. All in all, what impact has the Vintage Style of the 1980s and 1990s had on fashion today? 2
“What goes around comes around” can be described as karma but it also works perfectly to describe the cycle of fashion. This phrase is also a famous vintage shop in New York City where fashion icons can be found shopping in the store. Fashion writer, Taylah Brewer wrote: Trends and styles that were once considered modern and daring eventually become old and ugly, only to be reborn and re-worn decades later. And that cycle seems to be turning quicker than ever. Less than 20 years later, fashion that was considered cool in the 90s is cool once again. Whether it’s on the catwalk, on the street or in the stores, 90s trends are appearing everywhere.3 The generation cycle is a genuine fact that shows how 80s and 90s style is coming back. The vintage style is always going to come back generation after generation. Firstly, designers find inspiration in cool old trends and renew contemporary style and secondly, we are linked with our parents’ childhoods. Nostalgia4 is also a main point because designers of the present time lived in the 80s and 90s style.
The fashion style of the 1980s is well represented in the tv show “The Carrie Diary” inspired by Sex and the City. It is a show that uses contemporary clothes and makes vintage outfits with them. We can say that the 80s was about neon pants (redone by American apparel), sportswear, white Reebooks, colorful outfits, Chuck Taylor’s Converse, Stan Smith, plastic accessories and Nike cortez. In the present time, we can still see that white Reebooks, sportswear, Stan Smith, Converse and Nike cortez are fashionable. 
Hypebeast.com Gigi Hadid (fashion icon and model) wearing Reebooks
thebrandingjournal.com Adidas brought back iconic stan smith shoe global market The ComeBack of the Stan Smith with Colette, Raf Simons and Adidas.
The fashion blogger, Lizzy V.D Ligt wearing the Nike Cortez. 
Pinterest: Stan Smith Bella Hadid who won Model of the Year 2016 wearing Stan Smith shoes.
The fashion style of the 1990s was all about Doc Martens, Levi’s jeans, Britney Spears singing “Baby One More Time,” floral skater dresses, denim jackets, chocker necklaces, Gazelles, Biker jackets, bombers, mom jeans, the Fila brand, elevated shoes, overalls, Air Max Plus and flannel. People were inspired by The Spice Girls, Sex and the City, the birth of the “Supermodel,” Madonna’s cone bra created by Jean Paul Gaultier, the show Beverly Hills 90210, the movie Clueless, and Kate Moss who changed the fashion world and was the inverse of the supermodels, she was and still is a fashion icon.
Jenss Heiken is telling us in her own words that by using the vintage garments of the past generations we could provide the risk: Looking up to date, by wearing new clothes or by concealing the continued use of previous fashion purchases, can prevent the pitfall of being socially stigmatized in a context where dress and keeping up with the changing styles of fashion through continuous consumption of new clothes is seen to function as an evidence of (the) ability to pay.5 Stella McCartney has relaunched in 2015 the style of the platform shoes of the 1990s using materials and colors of today such as wood as we can see below. 
Pinterest: Stella McCartney Shoes Isabel Marant is inspired by the baggy style and overalls very present in the 1990s for its collection of spring summer 2016: 
Google: Isabel Marant Collection 2017 
nostalgia-overload.blogsport.fr Fashion styles from 1990s Baggy overalls of the 1990s. You can recognize Justin Timberlake standing in the middle of the Boy Band ‘N Sync.
Nike Cortez, 1980 (first shoes were designed in 1972 for runners) 
Nike Cortez, 2017 Firstversions.com Nike shoes
Reebok Originals, 1987 
Stan Smith, first designed in 1973 The Stan smiths have adapted to today’s style thanks to a choice of several design and colors while maintaining the authenticity of the design of the original shoe.
Street fashion photography is well known by fashion bloggers who like to photograph their outfits in the streets, for example, while walking through a pedestrian crossing. As Eugenie Shinkle writes: Taking the consecration of the “straight-up” fashion portrait in 1980 in i-D Magazine as a starting point, we first chart the appearance of street fashion photography, from the emergence of the street as a visual background to fashion shoots, to the institutionalization of vox-pop (through the opinion of people) fashion images.8 On the subject of street fashion photography, I have interviewed Morgane Lay, a fashion photographer. She is French but living in London where she started in 2011 her own photography business. We talked mainly about the vintage style of the 80s and 90s: Some of the styles from the 80s and 90s have come back, bold prints, shockers, slip dresses, mom jeans. But the 80s and 90s seem like quite an indistinct and diffuse period. Which makes its trends probably less likely to survive.9 We also went through her fashion photographer idols which are Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton. Morgane thinks that photography can change the way people think of fashion: “Yes, obviously! Photography is everything these days and fashion is consumed and directed so much about the images we see online and particularly these days on social media.”10 Afterward we discussed fashion bloggers since she is working with them and I asked her if she had any particular fashion blogger who inspired her: “I don’t really have any blogger in mind, but I enjoy following some of them with a distinct and consistant style with a laid back approach to fashion.”11 For the photographer, the ultimate vintage look is: “A cut Levi’s 501, espadrilles and a little white blouse.”12 Going back to the subject of street fashion photography, if Morgane had to stage today a vintage fashion shoot in the style of the 80s or 90s; she would pick: “An urban location, make sure colours pop out, a strong female role, embellished silhouettes, labels like Calvin Klein, Levi’s, Ralph Lauren at the forefront.”13 All in all, as Eugenie Shinkle says in her book entitled Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion: “Straight-up fashion images draw attention to the idea of fashion as a situated practice of production informed by two main sites – the street and the catwalk.”14 Street photography is distinctive of the 1970s and 1980s as we can see from such famous photographers as Amy Arbus15. 
Madonna on the street. 1980 – 1990. Amy Arbus b. The movement of influence Fashion icons influence the vintage style as well as our own style. Adolescence is a phase that can be very easily influenced. As you may know, models become top models when they are admired. In the 1980s, we could see the influence of Claudia Schniffer, Naomi Campbel or Cindy Crawford in the world of fashion. These women have known success because of their beauty but especially their success with women who all wanted to look like them. Today we can see the same evolution with models such as Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid who finally became stars. Young people want to be fashionable and follow the influence of trendy style. They are inspired by young women and follow everything they do, especially thanks to the social networks of today’s world. Let's take Kendall Jenner, she gives a style that her fans will want to admire and copy. “In early issues of i-D the straight-up was established as the magazine’s visual signature: a style of dress worn by ordinary people as opposed to professional models, combined in apparent disregard of dominant fashion codes and celebrated in the streets rather than in the rarefied spaces in which fashion was usually found.”16  Kendall Jenner
In the picture above, we can note her printed t-shirt, her loose pants, white boots, and her fanny pack. This outfit is still seen in today’s trends. Kendall Jenner is inspired by the 90s and wears black which is the color of this period as well as white shoes. This quote given from Alexander Fury is a main argument in why is the vintage style of the 1990s coming back nowadays: So why this rediscovered taste for the ’90s now? This redux isn’t limited to the runway, to the slithery bias dresses by everyone from Joseph Altuzarra to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, to the grunge redux at young labels like Marques’Almeida and Vetements, to Donatella Versace reviving Versace. It’s reflected in the television shows we watch, the music we now play on our iPods, the colors we gravitate to.17 “But perhaps the most important message of fashion in the ‘90s was the idea of authenticity.”18 These years have a sense of authenticity because it was before the revolution of technology and the economic outbreak. We often cling back to those years because they are before the 21th century. The influence of fashion icons help brands such as Tommy Hilfiger make a sensational rebound, the example of their collaboration with Gigi Hadid. Tommy x Gigi caused a big hit on social medias thanks to the top model’s fame. The same goes for the collaboration between the brand Supreme and Louis Vuitton. 
Tommy x Gigi, Feb 8, 2016. 
Louis Vuitton x Supreme, 2017. “Elizabeth Wilson writes: “We choose the clothes we wear everyday in order to look right now – today. In that sense fashion is very much about the present. It is about fitting in, while, perhaps remaining distinctive.”19 In order to get a closer look at fashion blogging, I have interviewed a blogger called Natacha Steven who answered some of my questions about the vintage style and the fashion world. Natacha Steven launched her lifestyle and fashion blog in 2012. She did a collaboration with L’Oréal. She is present every year on the front rows of the fashion week shows and she now has sixty thousand followers on social media platforms such as Instagram. The influence that fashion has on her life is far more than an influence; it has become a way of life. Natacha feels like most of the trends are always re invented and re vamped so she believes that we will still enjoy some vintage trends from the 80s and 90s. For the blogger, the consequences of the vintage style in today’s fashion world is that it’s a great source of inspiration. Moreover, her favorite time is the 70s; she loves that period and how easy going and lay back fashion and beauty was. I asked her how would you describe the look of the 1980s and 1990s: “A mix of rock and pink with strong colors such as black, silver and pink and materials such as studs, leather and vinyls.” The last question was: what is for you the ultimate vintage look? And Natacha responded: “Jeans and white T. It’s all about the attitude not necessarily the clothes.” What is interesting is to have the point of view of a blogger that lived through the 90s. I feel like people will always have a favorite period ever for fashion or the way of life of those times.
Advertisers will always need to go back to basic elements that were famous trends in the past because people appreciate nostalgia thanks to their childhood memories. “Adidas, for example, recently relaunched its iconic Gazelle trainers using Kate Moss, who fronted the original ads 25 years ago.” 20 21  22
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‘Like the Gazelle, Kate Moss is just as relevant in 2016 as she was back in the 1990s, which is why the image works so well,’ Adidas brand consultant and curator Gary Aspden told Business Of Fashion. ‘Kate told me earlier this year that when it comes to trainers she has always been an ‘Adidas girl,’ so there was an affinity and an existing synergy there.’”24 This alliance between Adidas, Kate Moss and Doug Abrahan perfectly shows how a brand take a vintage style with a fashion icon and plays with the future to renew the fashion element. However, the vintage style could be seen as copied and not new for people that are not aware of the fashion industry and trends. People aren’t always influenced by fashion icons but I feel like we are all, at least once, influence by someone that me admire. Moreover, we know that not all bloggers focused on 1980s and 1990s such as Natacha Steven whom favorite time is the 70s; she loves that period and how easy going and lay back fashion and beauty was.
The generation cycle, nostalgia and the influence of fashion icons are the main causes of why is the vintage style of the 80s and 90s in trend nowadays. These three points have influenced fashion today thanks to elements that will always be present even in the future. While individual trend fade, vintage does not. The period of time can change but principle remains. We will always refer ourselves to the past as a way to be reassured and allow us to move forward. The vintage can never be extinguished but can only evolve because it allows us to get closer to history; it is thanks to this that we can make progress. In short, everything comes from there. The style of fashion will continue to evolve according to the designers who are inspired by an era; such as elements already used in the past. In the fashion sector, we will always refer to the years before the 21st century, indeed it is the only way we can cling to our roots, to our history. Bibliography Abrams, Melanie. "Fashion Photography Is The Art World’S Rising Star". Nytimes.com. 2014. https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/18/fashion/fashion-photography-emerges-with-new-respect.html?_r=0 (13 Mar. 2017). Brown, Stephen. 2001. Marketing- The Retro Revolution. London: Sage. Brown, Stephen, Robert V. Kozinets, and John F. Sherry, Jr. 2003a. “Sell Me the Old, Old Story: Retromarketing Management and the Art of Brand Revival.” Journal of Customer Behavior 2 (June): 85.98. Brown, Stephen, Robert V. Kozinets, and John F. Sherry, Jr. 2003b. “Teaching Old Brands New Tricks: Retro Branding and the Revival of Brand Meaning.” Journal of Marketing 67 (July) 19-33 Caroline Leaper, “Adidas and Kate Moss team up for Gazelle trainers relaunch.” Marie Claire. 28 June 2016. Web. 17 April 2017 Fury, Alexander. "The Return Of The ’90S". Nytimes.com. N.p., 2017. Accessed: Web. 4 Apr. 2017. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/13/t-magazine/fashion/90s-fashion-revival.html?_r=0 George Roberts, “The Nostalgia Trend In Marketing: Can Brands Enjoy The Same Success Second Time Round?”. 15 July 2016. Web. 17 April 2017. Jenss, Heike. 2015. Dress and Fashion Research Ser. : Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture (1). London, GB: Bloomsbury Academic. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. KOPNINA, HELEN. "The World According to "Vogue": The Role of Culture(s) in International Fashion Magazines." Dialectical Anthropology 31, no. 4 (2007): 363-81. http://www.jstor.org/stable/29790799. R.J. Cutler . “The September Issue”, January 16, 2009. Shinkle, Eugenie, eds. 2008. Fashion as Photograph : Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. London, US: I.B.Tauris. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. Fury, Alexander. "The Return Of The ’90S". Nytimes.com. N.p., 2017. Web. 4 Apr. 2017.https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/13/t-magazine/fashion/90s-fashion-revival.html?_r=0 1 Munzenrieder, Kyle. “ 2 R.J. Cutler. “The September Issue”, January 16, 2009. This documentary was influential on developing my magazine because it showed me how to compose a magazine and for example, what pictures of a photoshoot was to keep or not. 3 Taylah Brewer, "The 90S Fashion Trend That Is Making A Comeback". Fashion Trends and Style Blog. N.p., 2017. Web. 4 Apr. 2017. 4 5 Jenss, Heike. 2015. Dress and Fashion Research Ser. : Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture (1). London, GB: Bloomsbury Academic. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. P.31 Chapter 2 Vintage: Fashioning Time 6 Brams, Melanie. "Fashion Photography Is The Art World’S Rising Star". Nytimes.com. 2014. https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/18/fashion/fashion-photography-emerges-with-new-respect.html?_r=0 7 Shinkle, Eugenie, and Shinkle, Eug, eds. 2008. Fashion as Photograph : Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. London, US: I.B.Tauris. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. 8 Shinkle, Eugenie, eds. 2008. Fashion as Photograph : Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. London, US: I.B.Tauris. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. P.185 Introduction of Chapter 13: Fashioning the street. Images of the street in the fashion media by Agnès Rocamora and Alistair O’Neil. 9 Interview by myself with Morgane Lay. March 10, 2017. Italic mine. 10 Ibid. 11 Ibid. 12 Ibid. 13 Ibid. 14 Shinkle, Eugenie, eds. 2008. Fashion as Photograph : Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. London, US: I.B.Tauris. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. P.189 Chapter: The Spatialization of Fashion. 15 Singer, Olivia. « Amy Arbus On 80S Street Style Photography ». AnOther. N.p. April 28, 2015. Accessed 27 April, 2017. http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7354/amy-arbus-on-80s-street-style-photography 16 Shinkle, Eugenie, eds. 2008. Fashion as Photograph : Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. London, US: I.B.Tauris. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. P.186 Chapter 13: Fashioning the street: Images of the street in the fashion media by Agnès Rocamora and Alistair O’Neil. 17 Fury, Alexander. "The Return Of The ’90S". Nytimes.com. N.p., 2017. Accessed: Web. 4 Apr. 2017. 18 Ibid. 19 Jenss, Heike. 2015. Dress and Fashion Research Ser. : Fashioning Memory : Vintage Style and Youth Culture (1). London, GB: Bloomsbury Academic. Accessed March 5, 2017. ProQuest ebrary. P.139 Chapter 7 Un/timely Fashion 20 George Roberts, “The Nostalgia Trend In Marketing: Can Brands Enjoy The Same Success Second Time Round?”. 15 July 2016. Web. 17 April 2017. 21 Caroline Leaper, “Adidas and Kate Moss team up for Gazelle trainers relaunch.” Marie Claire. 28 June 2016. Web. 17 April 2017 22Caroline Leaper, “Adidas and Kate Moss team up for Gazelle trainers relaunch.” Marie Claire. 28 June 2016. Web. 17 April 2017. 23 Ibid. 24 Ibid. Yüklə 70,14 Kb. Dostları ilə paylaş:
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