So it begins

Modern Ruins

Published Date : November 9, 2004

Today we were up even earlier than usual to meet our guide.  Today, we visit Lebanon! 

Our Syrian guide was very interested in telling us his views on the Israeli conflict.  I found it fascinating to hear his perspective on the situation after years of being exposed to only one side of the story in the West.  There’s so much animosity on both sides that I don’t see any simple resolution to the conflict in the region.  Both sides have been wronged so many times that it has become more of a tit-for-tat scenario than anything else.  Our guide, who was ex-military, was firmly of the mind that Israel should be wiped off the map.  Definitely not a constructive solution to the problem.

Anyway, the trip to the border took about an hour.  We were stamped out of Syria in about half an hour, but it took another hour to get stamped into Lebanon as they checked every letter on every page and every stamp of every passport.  I guess it pays to be careful when you’re situated between two warring nations.

Our first stop was the town of Ba’albeq to see the Roman ruins (more ruins!) of Helipolis.  We also learned that Ba’albeq is the home of the founder of Hezbollah, the political/terrorist organization (depending who you believe).  After the tour of Heliopolis, it was on to the much praised Lebanese lunch.  Mel and Wayne had been talking up this lunch for the last couple of days, so were expecting a feast.  What we got was a lot of raw whole vegetables, some feta, flat bread (of course) and a plain cinnamon rice chicken/beef dish.  That’s not to say the food was bad, but it definitely wasn’t the taste sensation we had been led to expect.  With my appetite coming back again after being ill, I think that made it all the more disappointing.

Leaving Ba’albeq, we continued down the cost towards Beirut, arriving just in time for sunset.  We were taken on a lightning fast tour of the areas most damaged during the civil war then were dropped off in the posh beach area in front of McDonald’s and the HardRock Cafe and told to shop for a couple of hours.  Oh and get dinner for yourself as well. 

Everything was closed so we all ended up congregating at Starbucks, the only place open on the main street and then just sitting by the seaside until it was time for our pick-up.  That’s not to say that it was entirely without excitement. 

We were sitting out on the Starbucks patio when we heard a pair of explosions only a mile or two away!  Several people immediately wanted to head back to the bus and leave, but our driver was nowhere to be found even if the rest of us had agreed.  The locals didn’t seem at all perturbed by the explosions, continuing on about their business, so we followed their lead.  When the armoured vehicles rolled by shortly after, none of us were surprised when the sound of automatic gunfire drifted our way a few minutes later. 

I was surprisingly unfazed by it all.  After only just having driven past so many shelled out buildings covered in bullet holes, it seemed almost fitting somehow. 

Despite the military action, Beirut felt very relaxed after Syria. Apparently bombs are easier to deal with then constant harassment.  I would have liked to have spent more time there in daylight.

Finally meeting up with our guide again, we began the long drive back to the border. It took another hour to get stamped out of Lebanon and many took advantage of that time to pay a visit to the duty free shop.  Crossing back into Syria was a simple process and we were rolling into the campground by about 10pm.

It had been raining while we were gone and several people’s tents had leaked, so some people had a long cold night ahead of them.  Lesson learned: if you’re going to go to the trouble of putting a fly on your tent, do it properly.

Recovery Day

Published Date : November 10, 2004

The rest of the group went into Damascus today, but I felt the need for some downtime.  I took the opportunity to do some laundry, write some postcards and do some reading.  I’m feeling pretty much back to normal again, but it was nice to just relax and not have to run off somewhere.  I may regret it later.  For now though, I’m happy to have some time to myself.

If I see one more ruin

Published Date : November 11, 2004

Today we leave Syria and continue on to Jordan.  I have mixed feeling about this country.  The individuals that I dealt with were very friendly and welcoming, but the overall feel was far from positive.  While I never felt threatened or at risk of harm, I never felt completely safe either.  The touching in Aleppo was wildly disconcerting and I didn’t particularly enjoy being spat and hissed at in Palmyra.  There is a darkness to this country that can be very off-putting.  Syria didn’t really jump out at me as a place I want to return to, but I’m very glad that I came here.  Despite being a bit burnt out in respect to ruins and ancient sites, there is so much history in this country that it would be a shame to miss out on it.  I think given more time here, I would have come to appreciate it more.  If someone were to ask me if they should travel to Syria, I don’t think I could give it a glowing recommendation, but I wouldn’t dissuade them from visiting either.

Heading south from Damascus, our last stop in Syria is Bosra, the site of a 2^nd century free-standing Roman amphitheatre.  Bosra is one of the best preserved Roman theatres in the world.  I still wasn’t feeling 100% and couldn’t muster the energy to explore the ruins.  Staying with the bus, I kept score while the English lads started up a football match with some local boys in the parking lot.

Leaving Bosra our next stop was the border.  It took abou half an hour to get out of Syria, and another half hour to get in to Jordan.  While we were in No Mans Land, I changed the last of my Syrian pounds into Jordanian Dinars.

Our first stop in Jordan was Jerash, known as Antioch in Roman times.  I made an effort to explore this time, but in the heat of the day, I didn’t last long.  I’m really hoping I shake this bug soon.  I don’t want this to be the trip of things I saw from the parking lot!

From Jerash, we continue south to the capital, Amman.  We arrived after dark and this is our only night in Amman, so I was quite interested in the goings on as we drove to our hotel. With the wide, paved roads, a McDonald’s or KFC on every corner, huge air-conditioned supermarkets and flash cars we could be forgiven for thinking we were in any mid-sized city in North America.  Amman is definitely a far cry from anything we saw in Syria.