So it begins

Desert Dreams

Published Date : February 9, 2005

It was a long day in the truck followed by a spectacular camp.  Along the way we stopped briefly at Twyfelfontein to see the ancient rock carvings.  This desolate part of the world has been inhabited for the last 6000 years and is now a protected UNESCO site.  With almost no rainfall, the small spring is the lifeblood of the area.

We made a pit stop at a nearby campground for lunch before heading out into nothing.  The rest of the day we drove through one of the most barren landscapes I have ever seen.  There was nothing but rock and desert as far as the eye could see.  As the sun began to drop lower in the sky, we pulled off the main road onto a dirt track.  Stopping in the middle of nowhere, we set up our camp.

Anton told us we were about half an hour from the town of Uis, but we may as well have been on Mars.  Apart from so low hills in the distance, there was only rocky earth and scrub brush.  It was the perfect habitat for snakes and scorpions – we found plenty of both!

After dinner I found myself a comfortable slab of rock and watched the sun sink below the horizon.  It was probably one of the most stunning sunsets I have ever had the joy to behold.  The rocks were bathed in ever-changing hues of oranges, pinks and golds until finally the last of the light was gone.  In its place was a perfectly clear and moonless sky filled with billions upon billions of twinkling stars.  I felt incredibly small beneath that majestic sky, but I also felt more connected and full of life than I had in a very long time. With the warm rock at my back and the cool air on my face, I lay there long into the night.

Crossing Continents

Published Date : February 10, 2005

The day was overcast and cool.  It seemed strange after the intense heat of the past two weeks.  We had rung in the New Year enjoying the tropical warmth of the Indian Ocean.  Half a dozen countries and six weeks later we were on the other side of the continent on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

This stretch where sea meets land is known as the Skeleton Coast.  To Portuguese sailors it was known as the Gates of Hell.  The shoreline earned its name at the height of the whaling industry when the beaches used to be dotted with the skeletons of whales.  Now it is lined with the skeletons of ships that were wrecked in the fog and rocks just off shore.

Our first stop was the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, home to the largest colony of Cape Fur Seals in the world.  The rocky beach was filled with hundreds of thousands of the foul-smelling animals.  They were sprawled in the sand, on the rocks, and on each other, their barks and growls filling the quiet moments between the crashing of the waves.

Leaving the seals behind, we continued south to Swakopmund.  The beautiful coastal town seems out of place here in the midst of all the sand.  A popular stop for backpackers and tourists, it’s a mecca of adventure sports.  After settling in at one of the hostels, we attended a brief talk outlining all our options while we are here.  There was skydiving, sandboarding, quad biking, kayaking, scenic flights, desert tours…the list was very comprehensive.    The only one that caught my interest was the kayaking, but unfortunately the guide was away on vacation.

While the rest of the group scattered to their various activities, I wandered around town and caught up on my emails at the hotel.  Greg is talking about meeting me in Singapore and the idea of going to India has come up, so I did a bit of research for that.  Things are definitely strained between us and I’m really beginning to question whether getting married was a mistake.  There’s nothing we can do about it until we’re actually together though, so for now I’m just trying not to worry about it.

After dinner, I joined the rest of my group at the bar.  Being back in civilization, I decided to wear some nicer clothes and even put on some makeup.  Apparently I did a good job because nobody recognized me when I first walked in! ��

Unfortunately, the first world amenities in this town come with first world prices.  It was a fun night of dancing, but alas there was no drinking for me.

Stay or go

Published Date : February 12, 2005

The last two days have been quiet for me.  I managed to post some of my souvenirs, but I still have another small box to go.  There is a 10kg weight limit at the post office here, so the rest will have to wait.  I might try again in Stellenbosch, but probably won’t get them sent off until Cape Town.

I cleaned out the truck and food bins, did some laundry and even went shopping.  My swimsuit is falling apart, but I didn’t have any luck finding a new one.

With some time to kill this afternoon, I headed to the local cinema to watch a movie, The Incredibles.  It was cute, but nothing special.

Back on the tourist trail with only a week left on the tour, I considered leaving the group again.  It would be easy for me to hop on a bus and continue on my own from here.  Being so close to the end, I realized it would be silly to bail out now.

Sossusvlei!

Published Date : February 14, 2005

Yesterday we left Swakopmund behind and made the long drive to Sesriem Canyon.  The day was dark and stormy with thunder booming and lightning crackling overhead.  The skies began to clear in late afternoon.  We arrived at the canyon just in time to enjoy another gorgeous sunset.

The moon was still high in the sky when we set out this morning.  Our destination was Namib-Naukuft National Park, specifically Sossusvlei, a flat salt/clay pan surrounded by enormous red sand dunes.  The sky was just starting to lighten when we arrived in the parking lot.  Setting off with plenty of water, we began the tough slog up the nearest dune.  Sliding back a foot for every two we moved forward in the loose sand, it was a difficult climb.   We arrived at the summit just as the first rays of sunlight began to appear on the horizon.  Stretched out in front of us was a stunning landscape of dunes, sand, salt flats and open desert.

The sun had well and truly arisen by the time we returned to the truck.  Stocking up on water, 6 of us geared up to make the trek in to Hiddenvlei.  It was a 4km hike through the dunes and pans to the Hidden Marsh, the most remote and least visited of the vleis in this part of the desert.  The temperatures continued to climb with the sun, the sand baking beneath our feet.  It was hot, barren and absolutely beautiful.  We didn’t see another soul the entire trek.  I didn’t want it to end.

We returned to camp for lunch and to pack up our tents.  Then we were back on the road heading to Duwisib Castle – a pseudo-medieval castle built in the early 1900s by an eccentric German baron.