So it begins

Indiana Jones country

Published Date : November 12, 2004

I’m really enjoying Jordanso far.  It’s got an excellent infrastructure and the people are incredibly friendly and helpful without the intensity or dark undercurrents of Syria.

Leaving Amman, it looked even more Western in daylight.  Our first stop was Madaba to look at a mosaic map of the Middle East in a Greek Orthodox Church.  Timing things perfectly, we couldn’t get in because they were holding mass.  Continuing on our journey, our next stop was Mt Nebo, the mountain from which Moses saw the Promised Land.  Not being even remotely religious, I could appreciate the historical significance of the site, but it was really just a viewpoint for me.  On a clear day the views would have been spectacular, but in the heat of the day we saw nothing but haze.

Our main stop for the afternoon was Sweimeh on the shore of the Dead Sea.  The Dead Sea is quickly drying up and estimates are that it run dry within the next 50 years unless Jordan and Israel drastically change their water consumption patterns.  We spent an enjoyable couple of hours in one of the resorts and took a mandatory dip in the sea.  It was very bizarre floating in it.  Due to the very high salt content, it’s almost impossible to sink.  You just constantly bob at about chest height.  Eventually the water will become too acidic to go in at all.  As it was, after about 15-20 minutes in the water all the girls were headed for the showers trying to ease the stinging in rather delicate places.  They sure don’t put that bit of information in the brochure!

Onward to Petra, our destination for the night was Al-Anbat Hotel which sits at the top of the valley.  On the agenda for the night is a screening of Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade which was partly filmed here in Petra.  Ever since I first saw the film when I was about 10 years old, I’ve always wanted to see this place for myself.  Tomorrow that dream is coming true!

Petra!!

Published Date : November 13, 2004

Petra is UNESCO World Heritage site.  The ancient city was carved out of the rocks over 2000 years ago.  At one point it was an important trading post for spices and silks moving between East and West.  Today it is still inhabited by local Bedouin people.

Looking forward to a spectacular day, we caught the shuttle down to the visitor centre after lunch.  Originally we were split into three groups with one tour guide each.  The guide for my group ditched us as soon as we were out of sight of the visitor centre and doubled back to pick up another group.  Smooth.  None of us were too concerned though as we didn’t really want to be taken around by the hand.

It’s about a 2km walk from the visitor centre to Al Khazneh. Half our group took the less energetic option of a camel or mule ride, but Frodo (one of the three Tims has been nicknamed Frodo because of his uncanny resemblance to the hobbit :D) Matt, Dee and I preferred to walk.  By the end of the first kilometre I was glad that I had elected to bring a backpack with plenty of extra water.  The temperature in the open was already over 30C by mid-morning and it was only going to get hotter!

Reaching the welcoming shade of The Siq, a narrow winding canyon carved out the mountain, I couldn’t wait to see Al Khazneh appear.  Al Khazneh was a temple in its heyday, but the early European explorers were sure there must be treasure inside, so it became known as The Treasury.  

Weaving through the narrow canyon on soft sand, the sight of the canyon opening up to slowly reveal Al Khazneh carved into the cliff face was awe-inspiring.  The carving was not as sharp as it would have been when it was still in use, the edges eroded away by wind and rain.  Despite the gradual smoothing out of its features, the building was still stunning to behold.  Lifelong goal: complete!!

The four of us waited around for a little while to see if the rest of our group would catch up.  We were impatient to see more of the site though, so after buying some more water from the back of a camel we were off.  Deciding to do the heavy work early, we began the grueling climb up to the Sacrificial High Point.

Not long after leaving Al Khazneh, Dee and Matt decided to call it quits.  Dee had started to feel ill again and the heat was doing a number on her.  Frodo and I continued on, slogging up several hundred steps to our destination.  The climb was tough, but it was worth the effort, with fantastic views in every direction.  Seeing all of Petra laid out before us, it became evident that one would need several days to do this place justice.  There is just so much to see, from amphitheatres and crusader castles to tombs and palaces.  One day is just not enough time!

Returning to the valley floor we continued along the main trail, passing cliffs dotted with buildings and caves.  As stunning as the architecture is, I was even more blown away by the geology.  Every shade of red and pink imaginable was represented in the rocks, marbled through in streaks and layers.

As the day grew warmer, I cursed whatever evil imp had led me to dress in black.  Despite the heat, I was having a fantastic time.  Frodo and I didn’t really have a plan, we just wandered and explored whatever tickled our fancy.  At one point we joined up with several others from our group, but after about half an hour they were ready to pack it in for the day.  After chatting with a couple of locals when we stopped to look at some crafts they were selling, we were keen to push on to Ad-Deir.

Leaving most of the crowds behind us, Frodo and I left the valley floor and started to climb up into the mountains.  The trail was rocky and steep, but easy enough to follow.  Pausing in the shade at one point to rest, we sat and took in the magnificent landscape stretching out below us.  Climbing once more, we were rewarded for our efforts with the sight of Ad-Deir, The Monastery, carved into the rock face across an open plateau.  Stunning.

The hike back down was easier, but no less exhausting.  It was mid-afternoon by then and we were both struggling with the heat and unexpected exercise.  Neither of us had really planned on a 12km slog through the desert when we woke up this morning!   We had stopped to gather our strength for the final push back to the visitor centre when a local Bedouin man waved us over to his tent.  There he plied us with free flat bread and hummous and tea, not letting us leave until we were both fully refreshed.  Talk about hospitality!

Too tired to lift our feet by the time we started back through The Siq, we were both happy to accept the offer of a free horse ride the last 500m back to the entrance.  Collapsing in front of the ice cream shop that was our pick-up point, we enjoyed a cool treat while we waited.

Back at the hotel, I barely made it through dinner before heading to bed.  I was asleep before my head hit the pillow.  Absolutely fantastic day in Petra!!