Contents of the fikst volume



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Law, Preston


R. Shuttleworth, Esq. Gawthorpe
Mr. R. Shuttleworth, Attorney at

Law, Rochdale


Rev. Mr. Smalley, Darwen
Rev. W. Sheepshanks, A.M. Pre-

bendary of Carlisle and Minister

of St. John's, Leeds
Rev. T. Sheepshanks, A M. Rector of

Wimpole and Aspenden, 2 copies


Rev. Mr. Shorrock, A.M. Minister of

Newchurch in Rossendale


Rev. J. Sheepshanks, A.M. Fellow

of Trinity College, Cambridge


For the late Dr. Shepherd's Library,


Preston
W. St. Clair, M.D. Preston

Literary Society, Settle

E. Standish, Esq. Standish Hall

T. A. Smyth, Esq. Berkeley- street,


Portman-sqnare

Mr. W. Sutcliffe, Field Head

Mr J. Swinglehurst, Parkhill, Ros-

sendale
E. Stephenson, Esq. Queen-square,

Bloomsbury
T.
Hon Baron Thomson, Bedford-square
C. Townley, Esq. F.R.S. F.S.A.

Townley
J. Townley, Esq. F.R.S. F.S.A.

Devonshire-place
Peregrine Townley, Esq. Cleveland-

row, St. James's


H. Taylor, Esq. Palace House and

Rock House, 3 copies


J. Taylor, Esq. Read, 2 copies
J. Tarleton, Esq. Finch House
Mr. Tathnm, Duxbury
Talbot, Esq.
Mr. J. Tluirsby, Leeds
Mr. J. Tickle, Padiham
Miss Thursby, Leeds
V.
Rev. J. Vause, A.M. Fellow of
King's College, Cambridge

Mr. Varley, Strangoways Hall

G. Venablcs, Esq. Mount Vernon

Mr. S. Veevers, Coal-clough


W.
Rt. Hon. Sir R, Worsley, Bart. Pall
Mall

R. Wilbraham, Esq. St. James's-


place
M. Wilson, Esq. Manor House, Otley

Rev. T. Wilson, B.D. Minister of


Clitheroe
Rev. R. Roe Walton, Marsden

Rev. Mr Wade, Tottington

Rev. H. Wigglesworth, A.M. Rector
of Slaidburn
Mr. J. Whitaker, Broadclough

G. Walmesley, Esq. Rochdale

R. Walmesley, Esq. Showley

T. W. Whalley, Esq. Roche Court,


Hampshire
W. Whalley, Esq. Orrel

Colonel Wright, Roefield

Rev. F. Wilkinson, A.M. Vicar of
Bardsey

Mr. H. Winterbottom, Goodshaw


Chapel

G. Wilbraham, Esq. Seymour-place


Ixvi

ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION, 1806.
J\j.UCH additional matter having come to the Author's hands since the Publication of this Work, it has

been judged expedient to incorporate the substance of it with the remaining Copies, as well as to make

several Corrections. Four Engravings are also added.

ADVERTISEMENT TO THE THIRD EDITION, 1818.


J.N this Volume the Author of the History of Whalley presents his first Work, for the last time, to a

judicious Public.


As the production of a young and zealous Antiquary, prone, from local attachment, to ascribe to some

objects a degree of importance to which they were not entitled, he is fully aware of the imperfections with

which it once abounded, and has never been inattentive to the admonitions which he has received on the

subject, with whatever temper, or in whatever style, they may have been expressed.


Nineteen years, however, which have elapsed since the first publication, might perhaps have converted

enthusiasm into indifference, had not the bounty of a great Prelate placed the Writer in a situation, which, as

it closely connected him with the principal subject of the Work, not only endeared to him that and the whole

parish beyond the feelings of local attachment and early zeal, but presented to him many opportunities of

information which lie had not before enjoyed.
At the same time unremitted inquiry into other topographical subjects incidentally threw in his way

numerous particulars relating to the parish of Whalley, of which he has in no instance neglected to avail

himself.
Many mistakes which had been discovered in the former edition have in consequence been rectified,

many facts which were there hypothetically stated have been reduced to certainty, and an ample fund of

original matter has been introduced.
Conscious, therefore, that nothing on the subject but a few gleanings could possibly remain for future

investigation to supply, he was on the point of ushering into the world, with unmixed satisfaction, discoveries

connected with that ancient Church and delightful Residence, where, for the last eight years, in society

endeared to him by every tie of nature and affection, he had passed so many happy and edifying days.


But the light and sunshine of the scene are now overcast by a gloom never to be dispelled. His

constant companion in public duties and private society, the Son, the Pupil, and the Friend, has been

snatched away by a momentary and awful stroke,* while in the possession of every domestic comfort, and in

the exercise of every domestic virtue ; and henceforward a place once so dear can only serve to revive the

painful recollection of past happiness too great to continue, and embitter sensations of present dereliction too

deep to be effaced.


Yet all feelings are not absorbed in one, however intense or abiding ; and it is even now with lively

and affectionate regard that this Volume, the memorial of a connexion which he rejoices in transmitting to

posterity, is bequeathed as a legacy to the parishioners of Whalley, by their Minister and Friend.

February 26, 1818.


* The Rev. Thomas Thoresby Whitaker, M.A., who was killed by a fall from his horse, August 28, 1817. See the Latin epitaph,

by his father, at Holme.

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HISTOEY OF WHALLEY.


BOOK I.

CHAPTER THE FIRST.
AMONG the native tribes of Britain, the Brigantes were the most numerous and power-

ful : they stretched from sea to sea in one direction from the shore of Humber to that of

Tyne, and from the sestuary of Mersey to that of Eden on the other. But, within these

ample confines were comprehended other inferior clans, of whom one, denominated by

Ptolemy the Setantii, or rather the Segantii, 1 arc placed by that geographer in the moun-

tainous tract usually termed the British Apennine, which divides the island in a longi-

tudinal ridge, and from which the rivers fall, in a long and gentle course, to the German

Ocean, but with a short and precipitate descent to the Irish Sea. Their other boundaries

may be conjectured to have been the bay of Moricambe to the north, and the copious

sestuary of the Mersey to the south. Thus situated, on an elevated level, along the sources

of numerous brooks and of some considerable rivers, their name may be referred to the

great characteristic feature of their country, Se cond u'i 2 the Head of the Waters. 3

Out of this wild and dreary tract, and contiguous only to its eastern boundary, arose in

much later times that district, ecclesiastical and civil, which I have undertaken to describe.

It comprehends, within the original boundaries of the Saxon parish of Whalley, the

present extensive vicarage of that name, together with those of Rochdale and Blackburn,

the rectory of Slaidburn, the vicarages of Mitton, Chipping, and Ribchester, with their
1 This is the reading of the Palatine MS. The anonymous Eavennas calls them Sistuntiaci, more probably

Seguntiaci. Vide Baxter in voce.


2 See again the excellent British etymologist Baxter in voce.
3 Eichard of Cirencester has thought proper to make us a present of the Voluntii, an Irish tribe, whom, as they

have no legal claim upon us, we will take leave to remove to their original place of settlement. Stukeley's edition of

Eic. Corinensis.
VOL. I. B

HISTOEY OF WHALLEY.


[BOOK I. CHAP. I.


several dependencies. 1 The features of the country are uniform, and rarely striking:

never expanding into spacious plains, and never soaring into bold and majestic mountains,

they swell into a tiresome succession of long and dreary ridges, sometimes, indeed, inter-

sected by the pleasing scenery of deep and woody valleys, but often separated by tame and

unbroken slopes, brown and cheerless, from which the wearied eye flies alike for refresh-

ment to the bolder features of nature and to the lively hues of cultivation.
One charming accompaniment of mountain scenery has been denied to the valleys of

our Apennine for we have no lakes or considerable pools, which in fact rarely appear but

in countries where the hills are bolder and more precipitous, where they tower into bulky

cones, or are broken into sharp and serrated ridges. Thus the fells of Purness, of West-

morland, and Cumberland, to the north, no sooner assume either of these striking forms,

than their feet begin to be washed in the cool and translucent gatherings of their own

torrents ; and thus the soft and swelling hills of Denbighshire to the south have no other

accompaniment of water than their own descending streams, while the naked cliffs of

Snoicdonia, often sharpened into ridges without a surface, are reflected on every side by

the expanse of llyns and pools to which nature has denied an immediate outlet.


The reason of a fact so general that I recollect only two or three exceptions to it,

seems to be this that, in countries truly alpine, vast masses of rock are often pitched

across the valleys, and thus become dams and ramparts which no force of torrents, or

weight of congregated waters, can ever move ; = while the fells above, composed of slate or

quartz, transmit their streams charged with few or no earthy particles to choke the pools

beneath by gradual accumulation, whereas the loose and ill-compacted banks casually

thrown athwart our spongy bottoms still appear in many instances to have been broken

by the first pressure of floods, 3 or the hollows above them to have been filled by gradual

deposits of earth and rubbish, which every little swell brings down in vast quantities, from

the sides of mountains composed of clay, schistus, or other loose materials.


A decomposition also of these or other minerals, almost all akin to coal or iron, forms

the basis of our vegetable mould ; and thus, as every species of native soil is attended with

a concomitant train of indigenous plants, while the granite of bolder fells is clad with the

glowing purple of heath, and the mamillary swells of limestone are enlivened by the

cheerful green of their native grasses the long and barn-like ridges of these hills are

thatched with an uninteresting covering of pale and meagre bent. 4


1 Status de Blackburnshire. 2 g ee stukeley's Iter Boreale, p. 48.
3 It is an ingenious and probable conjecture of Mr. Mitford, that the deluges of Ogyges and Deucalion were occa-

sioned by the bursting of lakes in the vales of Thessaly and Bceotia while the crust of the earth was yet tender and

unsettled, after the general deluge. History of Greece.
4 The Agrostis capillaris. [The Agrostis capillaris of Leers. A. alba, Linn. A. vulgaris and A. alia, Engl. Bot.

A. alba (Bentham, Handbook of the Brit. Flora). "A. capillaris, Linn. Sp. pi. 93, Sm. pi. Ic. t. 54, is a totally different

plant found in Portugal," Eng. Flora, vol. i. p. 93. " Some species (of Agrostis) are commonly called bents in some

parts of the country, a name given by others more especially to the crested dogstail " (Cynosurus cristatus), Bentham, ib.

p. 961. The herbage of these hills, however, chiefly consists of the root-leaves of the heath rush (Juncus squarrosus),

which is far more abundant than the bent, although the flowering stems are not nearly so conspicuous. P. A. L.]


BOOK I. CHAP. I] HISTORY OP WHALLEY. 3


Neither is the climate of this tract much more favourable than its general aspect.

Presenting the broad and bulky masses of its hills to those copious exhalations which,

rising in the Irish Sea, or even in the Atlantic, are driven by the continual prevalence of

western winds against their sides, its summers are too often ungenial, its autumns lost in

fogs, its grain damp and musty, its fruits crude and unmellowed.
In a state of nature, however, another cause, which is now at least partially done

away, contributed to augment the evil. Our vales, which are now drained by the hand of

cultivation, were then steaming and unwholesome swamps; and our mountains, which

even yet condense immense quantities of vapour by their chilling contact, then attracted,

in a much larger proportion, the humidity of the atmosphere, by the projection of their

native woods, which at the same time checked the wholesome influence of evaporation by

their impenetrable umbrage.
This was the character given by the historian to the climate of Britain in general ; but

it applies with peculiar propriety to our Apennines ef &v [eXow] T?)? dvaQviudaew KOI Tra^ur^Tos


6 KCLT e/celvrjv TIJV ^uipav at]p foc^aiSjy? del ^aiverai. 1
In this state, however, peopled by the wild boar and the wolf, and by their natural

prey, the moose deer, the stag, the wild bull, these wastes were traversed, rather than

occupied, by their first human inhabitants; and these were probably not only few in

numbers, but inferior to their southern neighbours in arts and civilization. Hence it is

that they have left, in a tract of great extent, only one remain 2 of those gigantic fortifica-

tions which, under all the disadvantages of mechanical inexpertness, mark the toil and

perseverance of savages that they have left few specimens of their skill in working metals,

or of their art in shaping instruments of stone that they have erected none of those

circular monuments, or rude columnar shafts, or well-poised rocking stones, which anti-

quarian uncertainty has agreed to term druidical. 3


But of their flexible and expressive language they have left many striking remains in

the names of permanent objects, such as rivers and mountains. These may best be con-

sidered if we first divide the whole district into those great portions which the hand of
1 Herodian, lib. iii. cap. 14, 15. So also Tacitus (Agricola, c. 12), "coelum crebris imbribus ac nebulis fffidum."

And again, " multus humor terrarum ccelique."


2 Vide EOSSENDALE.
3 In the contiguous parish of Halifax, Mr. Watson, the historian of that place, has found or fancied several of

these remains; but since the publication of his book a very considerable discovery was made, an account of which may

be allowed to supply the deficiency of similar information in our own parish. A countryman digging peat upon

Mixenden Moor turned up the following instruments : 1st. A very fine celt of brass, but so white as to appear to have

been alloyed by tin ; 2nd. A small battle-axe of beautiful green pebble veined with white ; 3rd. An instrument of grey

stone resembling a carpenter's gouge, and probably intended for the purpose of excavating wood ; 4th. A whetstone of

a black basaltic appearance ; 5th; Four arrow-heads of flint. These are now in my possession. [Besides the entrench-

ment of Broadclough here referred to, the following may be enumerated as British remains belonging to the ancient

parish of Whalley. They will be more fully noticed under their respective localities : Sepulchral urns found at Over

Darwen. Rock basins on Pendle and the hills about Burnley. Stone mallet found at Newchurch-in-Pendle. Celts

found at Waddington, Bead, and Clitheroe. Fibula found at Waddington. Beaded tore found near Rochdale. Gold tore

brought to Dr. Whitaker on the evening after he had finished the last edition of Whalley.]


HISTORY OF WHALLEY.


[BOOK I. CHAP. I.


nature has marked out, and which have materially affected its civil and ecclesiastical

distribution in later times.
In this survey it is not intended to pursue the boundaries of parishes with the servile

accuracy of a perambulation ; but with a freer and bolder hand to trace those great original

objects which Providence seems to have interposed, as dykes and ramparts, for the purpose

of ascertaining the claims or of restraining the hostility of neighbouring and contending

tribes in after ages. 1
If we take, therefore, an extended view of the whole tract which is intended, either

briefly or in detail, to constitute the subject of this work, it will appear to have been thus

originally distributed into nine different portions, of which some are principally defined by

the course of rivers ; but the greater part are deep and winding excavations, bounded by

the long and irregular outline of the surrounding hills, and all are strongly marked by

natural features on every side, excepting the eastern boundary of Bowland, the western

extremity of the parishes of Chipping and Bibchester, and the south-western limit of the

parish of Rochdale, in all which the original parish declines towards the adjoining plains,

and partakes of their tamer and less definite character.
This general survey will assist the reader in forming a distinct conception of the

natural characters of the country. It will bring together in one view such relics of the

British language as still subsist in the names of our rivers and mountains ; and it will show

what influence the hand of nature has had upon the subsequent arrangements of civil

society.

Natural Districts.


First, of these natural districts to the-,

north, is the tract interposed between

the Ribble, the Hodder, and the

fells of Totteredge, Trough Scar,

Goodgreave, Ravish Castle, and

Bowland Knots. The eastern boun-

dary not strongly marked.
Secondly, the tract bounded by Ribble, ""I

Hodder, and Fairsnape Fell. The I

boundary towards the Filde country j

not strongly defined. J


Third, the tract lying betwixt Pendle ")

and Ribble. J


Fourth, the great excavation between *\

Pendle, Pinhow, Bulswerd, 2 Hamel- /

don, Cliviger Pike, and Hameldon ^

in Hapton. J


British Names.


Ribble,


Hodder.

Modern Distribution, Civil and

Ecclesiastical.

( Forest and country of Bowland.

(. Parishes of Mitton and Sladeburn.

As before.


Pendle,


Cliderhow.
Pinhow,

Hameldon,

Calder,

Colne.

Parishes of Chipping and Ribchester.

Chapelries of Cliderhow and Downham.


r Whalley, with its immediately de-

J pendent townships, the chapelries of

j Burnley and Colne, and the forests

\. of Pendle and Trawden.

" Mutuo metu et montibus separantur." Tacitus de Mor. Germ.
The orthography of these names is principally that of ancient charters, often very different from the modern.

BOOK I. CHAP. L]


HISTORY OF WHALLEY.


Natural Districts. British Names.


Fifth, the country lying betwixt Hamel- -\
don, Criddon, Musbury, and the > Criddon.
rivers Calder and Hyndeburne. J
Sixth, the tract bounded by Ribble, ")
-P. , , , > Derwent.
Derwent, and Hyndeburne. J
Seventh, Country bounded by Cliviger "\
Moor, Hameldon, Criddon, Musbury, > Rossendale.
Copelaw, Gorsithlache. )
Eighth, the valleys of Roch and Spod--\
den, with their several acclivities, to I
Gorsithlache, Flourscar, Blackston- ! Roch,
edge, and the hills of Butterworth. i Biel.
The south-west boundary not strongly i
marked. -J
Ninth, the tract bounded by Black--'
stonedge, Stanedge, Goodgreave, Withins,
Walstonedge, &c. terminating the Diggles,
original parish of Whalley to the Chaw,
south on the confines of Cheshire, and Tame,

the Peak of Derby. 1 ^


Modern Distribution, Civil and

Ecclesiastical.
f Chapelries of Church, Altham, Accring-

(. ton, Haslingden,


Parish of Blackburn.


Forest of Rossendale.


I Parish of Rochdale within Lancashire.


1


Saddleworth, a member of the same

I parish, but in Yorkshire.


First, and most celebrated in this catalogue of British names, is the Ribble, which by

the general consent of our antiquaries has been understood to be the Bellscma of Ptolemy.

And this hypothesis is supported by the resemblance and the etymology of the two words,

as well as by the bearings and distances laid down by that geographer. A late antiquary,*

however, of great talents and learning, having a favourite hypothesis to support, has

thought proper to transfer Belisuma to the Mersey, and to leave the more distinguished

river nameless and unnoticed. In order to understand the grounds of this controversy, it

will, in the first place, be necessary to state and to explain Ptolemy's chart of the British

coast from the Seteia to the Moricambe.


Moricambe ^Estuarium 17 30 58 20
Segantiorum Portus 17 29 57 45
Belisama JEstuarium 17 30 57 20
Seteia JjZstuarium 17 57
Moricambe (the great curvature) and Seteia are here given quantities, one of which is

allowed to be the deep and spacious bay formed by the sestuaries of Ken and Leven, and

the other is as plainly the Dee. 3 But in the interval between these are three principal
4 Tottington is not included in this survey, because, though a member of the honor of Clitheroe, it forms no part

of the original parish of Whalley.


2 Mr. Whitaker, Hist. Mane. b. i. c. 5.
3 Se is the British prefix, or prepositive article ; and Teia is the true Welsh pronunciation of Deia, or Deva.

6 HISTORY OF WHALLEY. [BOOK I. CHAP. I.


rivers, the Lune, the Kibble, and the Mersey, of which two only are noticed by the

geographer. Now, prior to all reasoning upon the chart itself, there is an antecedent

probability, that, as Ptolemy is known to have taken his accounts of our British coasts

from the observations of mariners, those sestuaries which had no celebrated ports upon

them would be omitted in those observations. But the Mersey was exactly in this

predicament, whereas the Kibble and Lune had considerable harbours and stations upon

their banks, which would of course be resorted to by sailors, and therefore noted in their

charts.
However, in order to do justice to Mr. Whitaker's argument in support of his position

that Belisama is the Mersey, we will state it in his own words : l " Erom the Seteia, ad-

vancing 20 miles to the north, Ptolemy goes 30 to the east to the sestuary Belisama. This

is plainly the Mersey, because Belisama is at the distance of the Mersey from the Dee,

and because such a considerable object as the Mersey could not be overlooked any more


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