So it begins

Freezing ferries

Published Date : January 5, 2005

The original plan had been for all of us to catch the slow overnight ferry back to Dar es Salaam.  After the horrible experience had by most on the ferry coming over, everyone in the group except for Frodo (even though he’s now the only Tim still on the tour, his nickname from the Middle East portion of the trip has stuck!) and I decided to upgrade to the fast ferry instead. 

After a late breakfast, Frodo and I saw the rest of the group off to the dock.  Taking advantage of our extra time, we did some exploring and ran a few errands while we were at it.  I checked my emails, burned some photos to CD and changed some more money.  We enjoyed a couple of free drinks at Mercury’s before parting ways.  Frodo was happy to sit and watch the world sail by at the bar, while I wandered around the city.

Stone Town is the oldest part of Zanzibar City and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The island has a rich and bloody history as one of the Spice Islands and as a major center of the slave trade.  Under the control of the Arabs, Indians, Portuguese and British, it is the Arabs who have left the strongest imprint. 

The architecture is definitely reminiscent of the Middle East with stone forts and intricate carvings around delicate archways.  With a 99% muslim population, mosques dot the skyline.  Poverty is evident everywhere you turn with crumbling buildings and dodgy electrical wiring, but people seem happier here than on the mainland.

As the afternoon wore on, the heat drove me back to the air-conditioning of the hotel.  Meeting up with Frodo again, we waited until dark then returned to the docks to enjoy the fish market once more.  Tonight it was a feast of crab, blue marlin and kingfish for only $4. 

Eating as we walked, we made our way back to the ferry terminal to catch our ride back to Dar.  As the only foreigners on board, we were quickly ushered past the queues and shown to a quiet spot on an upper deck.  While still crowded, it was much more bearable than the lower decks.  Gingerly stepping around people sleeping on the floor, we were shown to a couple of unclaimed sleeping mats in a corner and left to our own devices. 

After the modern convenience of the fast ferry, we were both a bit shocked by the slow ferry.  It was clear that passenger limits were something to be ignored as more and more people crowded on board.  Apart from a few curious looks from fellow passengers, we were basically ignored, but feeling out of our depth, both of us were glad not to be making this sailing alone. 

We finally left the dock at 10pm and began the long journey back to Dar.  At first grateful for the air-conditioning, we soon grew to loathe it.  Wearing nothing more than shorts and t-shirts, I was glad that I had made the last minute decision to bring my sarong over from Dar.  We spent a long, cold night huddled together under the thin fabric trying to stay warm.

Hello Malawi

Published Date : January 7, 2005

It has been two very long days on the truck.  Yesterday, the ferry pulled into Dar es Salaam in the early morning.  It was organized chaos with market stalls going up wherever there was space. 

Grateful for the already hot day, Tim and I found a place in the sun where we could thaw out while we waited for the truck to arrive.  We received a lot of curious looks from people, but apart from one or two bold motor-taxi drivers, we were left alone.

It was a long 12 hours on the truck, passing through Mikumi National Park on the way.  Enjoying the scenery and watching lions and elephants as we drove past, we ended our day at Kisolanza Farmhouse near Iringa.  After setting up the tents, I managed to get some laundry done before turning in early. 

We had another 12 hour drive today, crossing into Malawi.  The visa was free, the border crossing was quick and painless.  Our destination for the night was a campsite in Chitimba on the shores of Lake Malawi.

I made short work of setting up my tent then found myself a quiet patch of sand to sit and enjoy the sunset across the lake.  I was surprised at the size of the waves being kicked up by the wind.  If I hadn’t known better, I would have thought I was sitting next to the sea rather than just a lake.  Unfortunately, my plan was confounded by the sand fleas.  I quickly abandoned the beach and retreated the bug-free safety of the bar.

Trekking

Published Date : January 8, 2005

After two long days in the truck, today we had the perfect opportunity to stretch our legs.  Several of us decided to hire a local guide to make the long trek up to the highlands.

The day was hot and humid, the sky hazy. Within half an hour of leaving the campsite we were all drenched in sweat.  Climbing away from the lakeshore we hiked past small villages where the children would come out to stare at us.  The braver ones would say hello before scampering away. 

Stopping at one point to rest in the shade of a mango tree and enjoy the views, we saw what looked like smoke drifting up from the lake.  When our guide told us that it was clouds of mosquitos hatching, I quickly understood why malaria is such a problem in this country.

Continuing on into the highlands towards Livingstonia, we were grateful for the slightly drier air and slight breeze.  Following the path winding through the trees, we passed through a cave beneath Manchewe Falls.  With the cascading water churning up a nice draft and being sprayed by the mist, it was a great place to rest for a few minutes.

Climbing up to the top of the falls, we stopped beside some calm pools in the river to enjoy lunch and a soak.  Still feeling the effects of my injury from Turkey, I had my foot wrapped in a tensor for the day.  Despite wearing my sturdy hiking boots and wearing the wrap, I could still feel the bone popping in and out of joint whenever I placed my foot on uneven ground.  It was a great relief to rest and soak it in the cold water for a while.

Finishing lunch, we set off again following a dirt road across the highlands to our destination. Livingstonia is a remote town that was founded by missionaries in the late 1800s.  With a population of over 6000 people, it boasts both a hospital and a school.  With buildings made of red brick nestled among the trees, it’s a very quaint and picturesque town.

After staying for a short while, we began the long journey back to Chitimba.  The highlight of the return trip was finding a small chameleon in the middle of the road.  We stopped to take some pictures and play with it for a while before continuing on our way.

Arriving back at camp at the end of our 9hr, 17km trek, I was exhausted, but very happy with the day.  Despite the pain in my foot, it felt great to be out moving again after so much sitting lately.