So it begins

Welcome to paradise!

Published Date : January 1, 2005

After a bit of a sleep in, I spent the morning going through my luggage.  Most of us were leaving our big packs behind, and taking only what we needed for a couple of days away. 

From Dar, there are several ways to reach the island of Zanzibar.  The fastest and most expensive is to fly.  There is also a slow overnight ferry that takes about 8 hours.  We took the mid-range option, a two-hour fast ferry. 

The large speedboat was in excellent condition and the crew were friendly.  The day was warm, the skies clear and everyone was in good spirits as we left Dar behind.  It didn’t last long though.  With waters still turbulent from the tsunami, add in high winds and it was very rough crossing.  According to the crew member I spoke with we were facing 5m swells at some points!  We plowed through the waves with steep climbs and stomach churning drops.

Thankful that I’ve never been squeamish or prone to motion sickness, I watched with a mix of sympathy and amusement as one passenger after another scrambled from their seats with hands over mouths.  When one man was caught off guard and vomited in his seat, it set off a chain reaction down the row as others grew ill at the sight. By the time we reached calmer seas in the shadow of Zanzibar, the cabin was almost empty.  Meanwhile there was hardly room to move out on deck as people hung over the railings as far astern as they could manage.

Pulling into the ferry terminal at Stone Town, we met by Michael, our local guide.  While officially part of Tanzania, Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous region and still maintains their own government and immigration.  Michael breezed us through customs where we added a new stamp to our passports.  After pointing Anthony in the direction of the local police station – his camera had been stolen while he had been revisiting his breakfast off the back of the ferry – Michael bundled the rest of us into taxis and sent us on to our home for the next three nights. 

It was a 90-minute drive over rough roads to the northern beaches, but our destination was worth the effort.  The Amaan Kendwa Bungalows sat on a white sand beach overlooking a sparkling blue sea.  At $20 per night, they were a bit overpriced for the quality of the room, but worth every penny for the views.

The bar/restaurant was situated right on the beach, just steps from the water.  Enjoying a delicious steak dinner for only $8 while watching the sunset I couldn’t ask for a better start to the New Year!

Lazy Day #

Published Date : January 2, 2005

I was up early this morning after a fantastic night of sleep on an actual bed!!  The beachside restaurant continues to impress.  I enjoyed a delicious omelette with tea, toast and fresh pineapple and watermelon.  Savouring my meal, I watched the beach come to life as the locals began their day.  The men headed out to sea in their small wooden boats while the women fished along the shore and did their daily chores.

As the morning chill faded I went in search of the local dive shop.  I had been hoping to do some diving at Mnemba Island – at only $90 for two dives including full equipment rental it would have been a crime not to attempt it!  However, due to the lingering effects of the tsunami and the unseasonably high winds, it’s just not going to be possible.  There’s no visibility and the seas are simply too rough for the small boats used by the dive operators.  I’ll keep my fingers crossed that conditions will improve while I’m here.

Instead of diving, I spent a lazy day of reading on the beach, enjoying cocktails with little umbrellas in them and eating fantastic food.  Watching the sunset, I rounded out the day with a divine lobster spaghetti for dinner for only $8. 

Tough life.

Lazy Day #

Published Date : January 3, 2005

I’ve discovered on this trip that without work obligations, my sleep cycle has adapted to follow the sun.  I wake when it rises and sleep when it sets.  Add that to good food, fresh air, sunshine and exercise, it’s no wonder I’ve been losing weight and feeling great (physically anyway). 

Mentally, I’m still feeling kind of blah.  I’m beginning to wonder if it’s entirely due to being surrounded by people all the time or if it may also have something to do with the antimalarial I’m taking.  Larium (mefloquine) is known to produce to neuropsychological side effects, more so in women than men.  It’s something I’ll have to keep an eye on.

After a lovely breakfast of French toast, fresh fruit and tea, I wandered over to the dive shop again.  There are some local dives running today, but nothing at Mnemba Island.  The dive master was honest with me and said that Mnemba was really the only dive worth doing in the area and not to waste my money on anything else.

And so began another lazy day in the sun.  I read on the beach some more and also did some exploring.  I walked along the shore past some of the villager’s homes.  I watched a group of local women singing in the water as they worked with a large fishing net. 

Most of the group had rented cars for the day to explore some more of the island.  Meeting up with them for dinner (Shanghai Chicken for $6 – yum!) to hear about their days, they didn’t have much to share.  Many of them are bored and ready to move on.  Never much for sitting around all day, I would normally agree with them, but I’m really enjoying the opportunity to spend some time alone and recharge my batteries.

Stone Town

Published Date : January 4, 2005

With most of the group returned to Stone Town last night, there were only 6 of us left at Kendwa this morning. 

I spent a quiet morning chatting with Ruth and Annika in the restaurant.  After lunch, we arranged for a taxi back to Stone Town.  The driver tried to cram 11 people plus luggage into a 7-seater minivan.  Less than impressed with the situation, Ruth bargained down the price of the fare by half for all of us.  I need to learn from her!

It was a sweaty, bumpy, uncomfortable 90-minute journey back to Stone Town and we all tumbled out of the cab in relief at our destination.  A dorm room at Safari Lodge cost us US$15 each including breakfast.  It was clean, comfortable and air-conditioned.  Perfect!

After settling in, we headed out to the docks to enjoy the nightly fish market.  Each evening, the fishermen set up fires and grills along the shore and sell their catch fresh off the boat.  A full plate of tuna, barracuda and chicken cost me $2.50.  It was delicious.