So it begins

Hungry, hungry hippos

Published Date : December 9, 2004

The drive from Naivasha to Lake Baringo shouldn’t have taken us more than a couple of hours yesterday.  Thanks to a traffic accident and road works, we had a long hot day on the truck, and didn’t arrive at Robert’s Camp until after dark.  On arrival we were warned not to wander as a crocodile had been sighted in the camp!

After breakfast this morning, we headed out for a boat trip on the lake.  With over 400 species of bird in the region, Lake Baringo is a birder’s paradise. The day was hazy and hot again, but the tour was spectacular.

Not long after hitting the water we were greeted with the sight of several large crocodiles sunning themselves along the shore. The birds I recognized along the shoreline included herons, egrets, ostrich and kingfishers.  For feathered critters the highlight of the day was watching a fish eagle hunt just metres from our boat!

The main event though was the hippos.  We had the opportunity to watch several groups of them in the water, jostling for position and calling to each other with low-pitched grunts.  We were all glad that our guides were keeping their distance when we saw several of them yawn, exposing the massive canine teeth they use for fighting!

Back in camp, it was another truck lunch for those who were budget conscious.  With the afternoon free, I decided to splurge and had lunch in the bar instead.  I spent the rest of the day in camp, chatting with the staff and other travelers.

I had hoped to go for an evening walk around the lake, but was warned against it by the staff.  The crocodile had been sighted again, along with two very large monitor lizards. The monitors aren’t really dangerous to people unless they are startled or feel threatened, but the crocs are another story.  I think after some time in Africa I’ll feel more comfortable with what is safe regarding all the wildlife, but for now I’m happy to listen to the advice of the locals.  Give me bears and cougars and I know exactly what to do.  Crocs and big cats, not so much!   

Limiting my stroll to the illuminated areas of the campground, I had plenty of geckos to keep me company.

Waterfront property

Published Date : December 10, 2004

“How are YOOUUUUUUU?  How are YOOUUUUUUU?”  That was the chorus that greeted us as we drove through Jinja, Uganda after 12 long, hot, and uncomfortable hours on the truck.

Leaving behind paved roads and developed towns, we entered the “real” Africa – hard-packed dirt roads, small villages and gorgeous scenery.  The contrast between the deep red soil and the lush green plants was striking. 

The border crossing in the early afternoon was easy and uneventful and cost me US$30 for a visa (student price).  I had spent most of the day reading and enjoying the scenery.  As we neared Jinja the villages became larger and started to appear more often along the road. 

Even if we couldn’t see a town ahead, we always knew that it was near when the children appeared.  They would come tearing out of the trees and across the fields to meet us, following us down the road, waving and laughing and screaming, “How are YOOUUUUUUU?” 

The adults were just as welcoming, if slightly less enthusiastic, smiling and waving at us as we passed by.

Continuing on through town, our destination for the night was Nile River Explorers camp about 8km out of town.  Overlooking the Nile River and Bujagali Falls, this camp is hugely popular with overland trucks. We were lucky to have the place almost entirely to ourselves.

Boda-Boda

Published Date : December 11, 2004

Jinja is the adventure capital of Uganda.  White water rafting on the White Nile is its claim to fame, but horseback riding, ATVs, mountain biking and birding safaris are all growing in popularity.   Bujagali Falls marks the beginning of the Nile river.  The famous waterway begins it’s journey in Lake Victoria and winds it’s way north through Egypt to the Mediterranean Sea.

With two days here, I decided to check out town today.  The primary mode of transportation in this part of the world is the boda-boda.  Originally these were bicycles with a padded seat on the back, but these days motorbikes are quickly taking over the industry.  I was told that the name “boda-boda” is a shortening of the phrase “border-to-border.”  The service originally started as a means of shuttling people around the no-man’s land between border posts.  To avoid the fees that were charged for automobiles, they used bikes instead.  The service has been growing in popularity, slowly expanding across Africa. 

It cost me 3000 Ugandan Shillings ($1.75) to make the trip into town on a motorbike boda-boda.  Being a tourist hub, Jinja has all the necessary amenities.  I exchanged some money and checked my email.  The internet connection was surprisingly good for dial-up. 

The people here have been incredibly friendly and welcoming.  In my wanderings around town several people paused to say hello or ask me where I was from.  The town itself is interesting.  A blend of paved and dirt roads, concrete buildings and traditional mud frames.  Corporate “sponsorship” is rampant throughout Africa, so there are Coke and Pepsi signs that turn up in the oddest of places. 

I caught another boda-boda back out to camp.  After a hot and dusty day in town, I headed to the showers.  Um…WOW!!  The camp is located on several terraces cut into the hill overlooking the river.  From the campsite, the shower block looks like any other, but inside the stalls, I was shocked to find only three walls.  The fourth was completely open with a knee to ceiling view of the river through the trees.  AMAZING!!